A place to exchange information on breeding tilapia. How to set up tilapia breeding colonies. How to sex fish for breeding colonies. What foods are best for breeding pairs and fingerlings.
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Latest Activity: Dec 19, 2021
Started by Jennifer Pankey. Last reply by Zalinda Farms Inc Oct 10, 2015. 1 Reply 0 Likes
Hello I am wondering if anyone knows of someone who sells large amounts of tilapia fingerlings in southern California. They must be Mossambica due to state regulations. I would appreciate any help.…Continue
Started by Phil Slaton Jun 3, 2015. 0 Replies 0 Likes
The barrels in the back of the 6-IBC grow out tanks are 2-media filters, 1 lava rock filter and on the extreme left, the sump. Aeration is provided to each individual IBC. Since my heart surgery…Continue
Started by john mark. Last reply by Jeff Fultz Apr 13, 2015. 3 Replies 0 Likes
hi , i live in farmington michigan and am looking to buy some blue tilapia does any one have any 2-3 inch ones for sale.thanksjohn markContinue
Started by Kevin R.. Last reply by Jeff Fultz Apr 13, 2015. 4 Replies 0 Likes
can someone give advice on a tilapia breeding/hatching question.my tilapia breed about once every couple months but fail to get thru the entire process.they lay the eggs, they are fertilized, they…Continue
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Sheri, TCLynx, SW,
You all have great experiences with breeding. As a reader, I love your work and your willingness to share, Thank you
Friendlies uses green water tanks for their tilapia breeding operation.
Jay,
Sheri is right as the female will definitely not eat. I forgot that one in my answer.
Our female blues all eat from our hands and do not get aggressive toward us after releasing the fry but certainly do toward the other fish during the entire time she is holding the eggs and then the fry. If for some reason I have to stick my hand in her tank I have seen a bit of aggression.
By the time the fry are released she will be very hungry but tilapia can absorb nutrients through their gills so think of "green" water as being nutritious. I also added zooplankton to the tank. I am not sure if that really helped or not but since the female can absorb micro nutrients through her gills I thought, why not try it.
Anyone ever hear of that being done? I wonder if it helps the mom?
Jay, by your description your female is probably holding eggs. You'll definitely know if she has eggs by whether she eats or not. She won't eat when she's carrying. Our Nile have never been aggressive when holding eggs...just after releasing them. Then they become really protective. If we put our finger near the tank they'll attack the glass.
Hi Jay,
At 5 months it is possible. You will be able to see her spinning the eggs in her mouth. It may take a few days before you will be able to notice but she'll open her mouth just a bit and you'll be able to see them. They are kind of a cream color. After about 8 days or so you'll start to see more of a black & cream color as they start hatching. She will keep them in her mouth for a few more days after that. We've had the mom's release them with the egg yolk completely absorbed and some with the egg yolk sac still there.
If you need to move her to another tank I would wait for a couple of days after you start seeing the black color. You can use a large fine mesh net with someone else holding a large pail or bucket underneath. She will definitely spit them all out once netted but if you move quickly there will be little loss of fry. Most fry loss will be from her thrashing around so move quickly. She will have no problem calling them all back to her mouth once moved and should go about her motherly duties.
We have even moved one too soon and she spit her eggs out but she picked them all up and carried on.
I have noticed my tilapia changing colors for many reasons but color alone is not an indicator of her being pregnant.
Best of luck and let us know what happens.
Sam
A female with eggs in her mouth is likely to be pretty territorial and try to chase others away from her "spot" especially when she gets ready to release the fry. I noticed my blue tilapia females in that aggressive state would get a dark stripe over/between the eyes as viewed from above.
Tanks get pricy real fast. I bought 100 gallon stock tank new for $80 + 7% tax. I built a 4x4 3ft high 330 gallon tank 4 tries. 2,700 lbs kept blowing out the seams. Material cost was about $150. Solved the problem with steel banding strapping. Tool & banding was another $160. Have since located 250 gallon metal reinforced Polly, used food flavoring tanks. I purchased 3 for $225 total ($75 each). That is best deal I have found. I was given a 20 gallon aquarium and a 40 gallon at no cost. I just had to pick them up.
if you are not into building tanks, I like the 300 gal tanks at ACE Hardware. I have the 300 gal, the 150s, the 100, and the 50s for my original grow-beds. In my pictues on the left are 3 100 gals and a 50. They are priced right.
I'll keep that in mind. I have a 100 gal. tank that has about 15 to 20 fish in that feeds my grow troughs. It has been left undisturbed and covered for several months.
Nice Fish Dave Story!
@ Dave Lindstedt I would recommend the same thing for your breeders too. Anything under 90 gallons is probably not optimal.
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