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Latest Activity: Feb 2, 2019
Started by Linda Logan. Last reply by Linda Logan Feb 2, 2019. 1 Reply 0 Likes
I need to shut down my indoor system for a few months. I have 2 mature Shubunkin, 1 albino Hypostomus to clean the aquarium. There is another small fish living in the sump.I live in SE Portland and…Continue
Started by John Wilson. Last reply by Wade J Rochelle Jan 25, 2019. 3 Replies 0 Likes
Hi all, we've just purchased a property with a large indoor swimming pool. Around 80,000L with a greenhouse roof and plenty of room around it for grow beds. However, this is far too big for us to…Continue
Started by Nichelle Hubley. Last reply by Nichelle Hubley Jun 30, 2015. 7 Replies 1 Like
Well, I think I messed up big time. I've been feeding my precious tilapia koi food (I like in a small place and it was all I could get... :( ) for about 2 months and last night I read on the back of…Continue
Started by Henrique Miguel. Last reply by Wayne Mcbryde May 14, 2015. 2 Replies 0 Likes
Hi,I have a set up of 2 55 gal blue barrel with Tilapia and guppies separate. I have young ones and they are growing well. Issue of overcrowding and feeding. 1. I would like to use a water…Continue
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When you first start up a new system, you have to allow the bacteria to colonize the system and this often takes an average of 6 weeks and is what people often call cycling. It can be done with or without fish (known as fishless cycling.)
Once a system is cycled up, as long as you have a balanced system (enough bio-filtration of the amount of fish) the bacteria are continuously converting the fish waste to pant nutrients. If you register ammonia or nitrite, it means that either the system isn't cycled up or you have too many fish or are feeding too much for the bio-filter and in general this is more dangerous to the fish than it is to the plants. It isn't like you put the fish in and then remove them and set a timer to know when the bio-filtration is done or anything like that. It is a continuous system which is more like organic gardening where the microbes are constantly converting (breaking down) the slow release fertilizers for the plants.
Thank you, TCLynx. Another question, how long will it take for the bacteria to covert the fish waste into the plant usable nutrients? How can we know the fish waste completely become usable nutrients?
Remember Robert that it isn't really the plants that clean the water for the fish but the bacteria that covert the fish waste into plant usable nutrients and the plants use the excess nutrients so you don't need to do water changes for the fish.
Aquaponics is a method that combines Hydroponics with Aquaculture. There are many methods of Hydroponics (NFT, Ebb and Flow, Flood and drain, Trickle, Wicking, DWC (raft), Aeroponics, vertical etc.) Traditional chemical Hydroponics requires sterile conditions and chemical nutrient salts provided in already plant usable forms and combinations and to keep them from getting out of balance one must dump and change out the chemical nutrient solution every few weeks.
In aquaponics or any other bio ponics or organic hydroponics a bio-filter is needed to convert the nutrient into plant usable forms. This means the system is not sterile and bio-films tend to form, this can make doing aeroponics difficult since bio-films tend to clog up sprayers. In Aquaponics there are some methods of the Hydroponic portion of the system that can also fill other system functions as well. For instance, flood and drain media beds not only act as the Plant growing space but they also fill the needs of solids and bio-filtration all in one single handy unit. Things like NFT don't provide any filtration so to build a system that sends water to an NFT pipe requires that you add solids and bio-filtration before the water goes to the NFT pipe. I would expect the same is true of Aeroponics though I have never tried it personally.
DWC can provide a certain amount of bio-filtration but generally it is best to add some additional filtration or at least some solids settling/removal. DWC requires additional aeration in the raft beds for good results.
If you are looking for simple to start, Hydro is the way to go. Try a dutch bucket system for fruiting plants, also look into the Kratky method for Lettuce and greens. Alternatively, you can start with a small fish tank and grow bed setup. There are lots of examples out here. Just pump the water out of the aquarium into the grow bed, then drain it back into the fish tank.
Thank you, Robert, but I ever saw some projects which can use FISH WASTE water to provide the feed solution to the plants as aeroponics, maybe it is more effective using hydroponics or aeroponics for commerical project.
I would break it down into two categories. Hydropoinics, a system in which you provide a feed solution directly to your plants - no fish. Aquaponics, a system where you use fish waste water to provide the feed solution to the plants and the plants clean the water for the fish. There are lots of different types of grow bed solutions for both. Aeroponics, is actually the same as hydro--but the food solution is sprayed onto the roots of your plants rather than allowing the roots to sit in the liquid. I would reccomend checking out sylvia's book to understand the different grow bed options. Also TCLynx and Nate Story have some interesting stuff on vertical solutions.
There are three kinds of growing way, using grow bed or hydroponic or aeroponics, can we discuss what the main difference between them? Thanks.
Verna, are your plants doing well? Or Are they showing signs of Nitrogen Deficiency?
Basically, Why do you think your nitrate level is a problem?
If your plants are doing well, the I agree with Leo, that means the nitrate level is perfect (what ever it is, could be 0 could be 200.) Just means you have found a good balance, at least for the current season. Nitrate, since it is not highly toxic to fish, is really just a test to use as an indicator but not necessarily something need to keep at some arbitrary number. In fact, if you did have a really high nitrate level, it might impede your plant's production of fruit in favor of more foliage instead.
Verna-
Tomatoes, peppers and cucumbers are all heavy feeders, these three take a lot of nutrients out of a system. You do not tell us the size of your system so it is hard to give an accurate assesment but it sounds like it is well cycled and the fish are doing what they do best, eat and poop. I would venture a guess that you may have just a little more plants than you need so I wouldn't plant any more. If you are really concerned with your nitrate levels, I think they are right on the mark, If you want to raise the nitrate level add more fish, if you want to decrease the nitrate level plant more plants. Either way, this is a good thing.
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