If you are using tilapia then the position of your tank really does not matter all that much. Tilapia love the warm water. The biggest problem is heating it and the tank sitting in the sun in the winter will not heat it but 2 to 3 degrees above the low night temp. The best thing you can do when you design/build your system is to heavily insulate the tank and I mean allot. The cheapest way to insulate is to use a few old sauna covers(craigslist), they are usually 4-6 inch think high density foam and can hold the temp very well. I cut one to fit under the tank part and between the cage bottom. The I cut more to fit the sides, shrink wrap the entire thing to create a vapor barrier and then hang a tarp over the side and wrap over top between the tank and the cage for looks with seam on the back side stapled together. Then another heavy foam/wood top. This will allow you to have 75 degree water in the winter with minimal heating. I used 2 small 300 watt tank heaters for the night. one on each side and they very rarely came on. during the day I ran the water through a small pump and 100' of coiled up black irrigation line and back to the tank. works great. I turn off the pump to the grow beds at night. Side note- buried sumps/tanks make it hard to regulate the temp and the ground is a large heat sink. For the grow beds you want east to west. Make sure a minimum of one is a media bed for nitrification and filtration. the other 2 can be whatever ya choose. As others have stated, large plants to north side. The most important things are adequate water flow and mass aeration(most important for all aspects of your system from plants to fish to biological). Tips- NO more than 30 fish for your IBC. adjust nutrient level by feed. Sex your tilapia as soon as they are big enough. If you plan on growing the fish for food then. only keeps males in the tank. keep 4 females in the sump. Date night when ya need new batch of fry. If not for food then just keep males in tank and no females at all. They get very hostile when put together and the males grow bigger faster. when you start your tank add fish right away and add a bunch of water lettuce(craigslist) to your grow beds as well as some good bacteria culture from a friends system or fish tank or you can get a small bottle from a hydro store for about ten bucks, will jump start your system quick. Pull water lettuce as you add plants. something needs to be in the system to cycle. Thats about the basic setup. Any questions let me know. Good luck...
"Side note- buried sumps/tanks make it hard to regulate the temp and the ground is a large heat sink."
My system is 4 years old now
I was thinking of dropping my FT and sump into the ground? got a question about your comment. I can understand the heat sink in the summer but heating all this water in the winter seems to me my issue. My thoughts are it would be easier to maintain winter temp using the earth as a thermal mass? My summer time water temp with everything above ground is 95-98ish, in the ground hoping to drop to maybe to 90ish low enough to keep the lettuce crops alive in the summer months.
Winter water temps are low 50's running two small heaters. But, I was not Isolating the FT water from the grow beds at night.
Larry, I 'm not sure isolating the sump at night would make a difference overall. If the FT stays at 80 and the sump drops to 60 whenever you turn the pump back on in the morning you still have to re-heat the sump water. My sump is halfway surrounded by water due to a high water table. It's insulated as good as possible by 2" foam. The water around the sump is pretty much the same temp as the sump water. That would indicate to me that the ground is acting as a heat sink. I've actually used that water to refill the sump when I didn't have any de-chlorinated water available.
Hi Larry. Doing a buried sump or tank and using the earth to regulate temps is not really viable for a ibc system. Any effect the earth has in changing the temp of your water is mitigated by the rest of the tank that is exposed above the frost line making it null. That's why ponds freeze over. You would need approx. 80 percent below frost line for it to have any effect. So the best thing you can do is heavy insulation like I suggested earlier for both summer and winter, Heat with small heaters for night and 100' plus of black irrigation line exposed to sun during day. For summer use mass aeration and make your water return like a rain shower. moving water and air cool, Think swamp cooler/mister. If that is still not enough cooling you have other options as well. Just like the heating irrigation coil, bury 100' of irrigation line 3 to 4 feet deep and run water through it, just like the heater but back to using earth to cool it. Being as 95% of the coil will be buried with no exposure to elements and below frost line it works well.
Jeff. we never stop water flow to sump tank only to grow beds at night. Several reasons. One, running the pumps at night actually reduces your DO(dissolved oxygen) in the tank/sump as no matter how hard one tried there is going to be some form of algae in there, At night algae uses mass amounts of oxygen for photosynthesis instead of sunlight. Two, it helps to control fluctuations in water temp. Constantly raising and lowering temps more than a few degrees daily is bad for your fish(diseases/stress) as well as can have adverse effects on colonization of beneficial bacteria. Three, A small solar panel can run your pumps all day but not at night unless you use battery backup.
I am not computer literate, so if my question is in the wrong place, please help to go to the right place. I am having an algae probable. Our system is only been running maybe a month. It is getting soupy where the water comes into the grow beds. We are using a Bell Syphon. Anyone else with this problem? What should we do? Thanks
I have started 2 systems and both of them got so green that I could not see more than 2 inchs below the surface. I am no expert at this but after letting it run for another month or so mine cleared right up. I think the systems are out of balance in the beginning and as they the system comes into a good cycle and balance the algae goes away.
Block all areas that are getting green from sunlight as much as possible.In your grow bed make sure the water level is below the surface of your media. The top media should never get wet. Place the inlet to your grow bed below the media surface to keep the water from splashing. Cover your fish yank with weed cloth, paint or some other sun blocking material. My Tilapia keep the fish tank algae free.
Greetings. It has been my experience that soon after you get your pH down under 7 and you get a critical mass of plants growing to compete for the nutrients (that mass is different for every system) the algae go away.
@ Lisa Outland - I have solved my algae problems by simply taking direct sunlight away from my Fish Tanks. I have covers over my tanks about 6 ft from the ground and have shade screen around the perimeter which allows me to enter the enclosure for maintenance. I used to have problems with turbidity caused by algae. I also change out 300/1400 gallons water if my nitrite level gets in the 0.5-1.0 range (API). I can now see clearly to the bottom of my 24 " deep tanks.
Algae is a part of start up. Seems to happen to pretty near everyone. Sunlight is #1 culprit of course along with too many nutrients for the amount of plant growth. Having no patience I wanted the pea soup gone asap so I built a 30g (2500g system) Poly-Fil (Walmart 10.00) filter and ran the "bypass" water thru it before dropping back into the sump. It cleared up the water in 24hrs. Algae can be filtered out. Within 48 hrs our five 4' deep IBC FTs were all clear. I replaced the Poly after a week and it has been 3 yrs now with no cleaning of the filter since. I do keep a small airstone in the inlet pipe to avoid any anaerobic build-up. Here is an old pic of the filter from back then (2012). The Poly sits in a diaper pail the depth of the drum and cost another 8.00. The filter sits right over the buried IBC sump. Here's an old pic:
Jeff, yes. All the GH electric passes thru it. We have had such a small impact on our electric bill with the AP GH I have not ever kept track. Between 10 and 20$ at most. I got it off eBay years ago all set up with a 4 gang box. I think I paid @15.00.
Just some cool pics from AGS-166 aquaponics at Mesa Community College (Mesa Az). P.S. We have been asked if we give tours? The answer is yes. Just inbox me.
First harvest ready (Oct 28th, 2015). Bibb lettuce from DWC.
Closeup of Bibb Buttercrunch Lettuce ready for harvest from DWC (Planted Sept 21st 2015).
DWC (40 ft2 growbed). (Day shot from Oct 29th 2015)
Now taking it down for the winter, this system that produced 210 pounds of food in 7 months. Also the foliage extending up over the tank on the left hand side is a luffa that trailed out of the tank, climbed up and took over that tree. It produced about 40 pounds of fruit before it was done.
If anyone is interested I have two (275 gal.) IBC's to give away just pick them up. They are cut for FT and GB one has a bazillion holes in it. It was used as a screen for washing gravel. If you are interested let me know I am in the northwest valley near 67th ave and Happeyvalley Rd.
New concepts are making aquaponics easier, less expensive and more mainstream. In this case it is great to hang out with our friends Catherine and Barry Cohen. Though just a few months old, their system is doing great, they are already harvesting from it tomatoes, lettuce and cucumbers and they do innovative things. For example, I would have never thought that fig trees could be rooted in aquaponics and their watermelons growing already.
It's about that time of year when we get an unwanted population explosion of tilapia in our systems. I have plenty of water and I'm always looking for more tilapia. If you need to reduce your population, store your fish or shut down your system I'll take them. Call or text me at 203.698.2626, I am just off the 101 in Scottsdale. Thank you!
Howdy all! I've moved and cycled up a new system. I'm now looking for a few fry. Any central phoenix sources? Most I am seeing is in Chandler/Gilbert. What options do we have available? I'm open to different species than just tilapia. My last setup had 150ish tilapia (a little out of hand imo) but I'm not complaining, just curious ;)
The good people at B.O.S.S. (Buckeye (Arizona) Outreach for Social Services) are really getting the hang of managing their 3-Hour farm system. They got it through the cold and storms of January and February 2017 and now it is starting to grow again. Good job folks.
P.S. It is called a 3-Hour farm for that is how long it takes to build one from out the box to filling with water and turning on the air.
Powered by goldfish at the moment. In photo: Garlic, collard greens, two types of mustard greens, broccoli, tomatoes, lettuce and marigolds.
Does anyone in the Phoenix area have any scuds/freshwater shrimp they are willing to sell and/or offer any experiences using them in aquaponics in Phoenix (heat tolerance, etc)?
I live up in Kingman. My neighbor has a pretty good set up right across the street. It seems to be producing very well. He is out of town for a few days but I will check it out closely when he returns. He has everything in a plastic greenhouse. He did it the hard way. Trial and error. I hope to learn from him and this forum.
Hi all. I'm a beginner in this field and located down in Tucson, but am doing some research regarding successful aquaponic systems in Northern Sonora. Anyone working down there - or have a contact down there?
I live in Green Valley and have a system I am getting rid of (selling home and moving out of town) It is yours if you come pick it up. 1-320 gal IBC for fish, 4-1/2 280 gal grow beds, 75 gal sump tank, pump, pvc tubing, etc Please call John at 520-471-5622 if interested.
Hi all, I've been running a raft bed this past winter for the first time and was great for all the greens. But now that it is starting to warm up, what are you growing in your raft beds through out the hotter months?
So, thanks to John Carlton, formerly of Green Valley, my 'aqua partner' and I are just getting a new garden set up. We changed the foot print a bit from how John had it set up, and basically have a tiered cascading system. SUPER simple! Getting ready to fill 'er up, and then try out the pump and plumbing. Now that we are having warmer nights, we plan to start out with a few gold fish and koi (both my partner and I want to have a few fish we can keep through the winter as pets and they will ultimately go in the lower sump tank) and then move into tilapia once it gets warmer. Anyone have suggestions for first greens to plant? See the attached pic for our garden set up. Appreciate any comments or suggestions...we are both newbies!
Larry, I've got an active breeder tank. All of my current fingerlings are spoken for, but I'll let you know when the next set of wee ones are released from mommy's mouth.
Just looking for the best way of presenting the concept that IBCs are not needed for great aquaponics. Here is my latest experiment: http://bit.ly/2ukPYQ4
Hi Arizona Aquaponic Gardeners! Im headed to AZ tomorrow morning and was hoping to check out some aquaponic gardens/ research tomorrow morning (9/27). I am currently conducting aquaponic research at the University of Maryland and would love to connect with some local gardeners in the Phoenix, Tuscon, and Flagstaff area!
Does anyone have some tilapia fingerling they would like to sell i am looking for about 15. I am restarting my system back up. Kind of let it go yo hell with life problems. but now back into it. Please Text me at 602-499-3857 if you can help.
Anyone know of some tricks to find a slow leak in pond liner? I have a tank I built that has been on a steady drip for about a year now. Its been easy to fill but I feel its getting worse. Lava rock probably got under the pump. I tried letting it drain till it stopped but it never did. Finding a pinhole in black is hard!
I am the old gent celebrating his 89th year of life and getting engrossed in Aquaponics. My system will be complete by 4-30. I will begin the water cycles then and should be ready for some Talapia by 5-15.
My fish tank is 350gal and I have 3 grow beds of 100 gal each. If anyone will have some fingerlings available then please contact me.
Its more a function of your media bed volume than the tank size. I've got a 350 gal tank as well with 4 x 50 gal media beds and i can support 30lbs of tilapia quite easily. So I would start with 30 and you'll see at the end of the year how your system is doing. If you don't have one, would recommend adding an external swirl filter as once 30 fish get over 1lb they generate a decent amount of solids.
James Wilson
If you are using tilapia then the position of your tank really does not matter all that much. Tilapia love the warm water. The biggest problem is heating it and the tank sitting in the sun in the winter will not heat it but 2 to 3 degrees above the low night temp. The best thing you can do when you design/build your system is to heavily insulate the tank and I mean allot. The cheapest way to insulate is to use a few old sauna covers(craigslist), they are usually 4-6 inch think high density foam and can hold the temp very well. I cut one to fit under the tank part and between the cage bottom. The I cut more to fit the sides, shrink wrap the entire thing to create a vapor barrier and then hang a tarp over the side and wrap over top between the tank and the cage for looks with seam on the back side stapled together. Then another heavy foam/wood top. This will allow you to have 75 degree water in the winter with minimal heating. I used 2 small 300 watt tank heaters for the night. one on each side and they very rarely came on. during the day I ran the water through a small pump and 100' of coiled up black irrigation line and back to the tank. works great. I turn off the pump to the grow beds at night. Side note- buried sumps/tanks make it hard to regulate the temp and the ground is a large heat sink. For the grow beds you want east to west. Make sure a minimum of one is a media bed for nitrification and filtration. the other 2 can be whatever ya choose. As others have stated, large plants to north side. The most important things are adequate water flow and mass aeration(most important for all aspects of your system from plants to fish to biological). Tips- NO more than 30 fish for your IBC. adjust nutrient level by feed. Sex your tilapia as soon as they are big enough. If you plan on growing the fish for food then. only keeps males in the tank. keep 4 females in the sump. Date night when ya need new batch of fry. If not for food then just keep males in tank and no females at all. They get very hostile when put together and the males grow bigger faster. when you start your tank add fish right away and add a bunch of water lettuce(craigslist) to your grow beds as well as some good bacteria culture from a friends system or fish tank or you can get a small bottle from a hydro store for about ten bucks, will jump start your system quick. Pull water lettuce as you add plants. something needs to be in the system to cycle. Thats about the basic setup. Any questions let me know. Good luck...
Sep 30, 2015
Larry
Comment by James Wilson 10 hours ago
"Side note- buried sumps/tanks make it hard to regulate the temp and the ground is a large heat sink."
My system is 4 years old now
I was thinking of dropping my FT and sump into the ground? got a question about your comment. I can understand the heat sink in the summer but heating all this water in the winter seems to me my issue. My thoughts are it would be easier to maintain winter temp using the earth as a thermal mass? My summer time water temp with everything above ground is 95-98ish, in the ground hoping to drop to maybe to 90ish low enough to keep the lettuce crops alive in the summer months.
Winter water temps are low 50's running two small heaters. But, I was not Isolating the FT water from the grow beds at night.
Oct 1, 2015
Jeff S
Larry, I 'm not sure isolating the sump at night would make a difference overall. If the FT stays at 80 and the sump drops to 60 whenever you turn the pump back on in the morning you still have to re-heat the sump water. My sump is halfway surrounded by water due to a high water table. It's insulated as good as possible by 2" foam. The water around the sump is pretty much the same temp as the sump water. That would indicate to me that the ground is acting as a heat sink. I've actually used that water to refill the sump when I didn't have any de-chlorinated water available.
Oct 1, 2015
James Wilson
Hi Larry. Doing a buried sump or tank and using the earth to regulate temps is not really viable for a ibc system. Any effect the earth has in changing the temp of your water is mitigated by the rest of the tank that is exposed above the frost line making it null. That's why ponds freeze over. You would need approx. 80 percent below frost line for it to have any effect. So the best thing you can do is heavy insulation like I suggested earlier for both summer and winter, Heat with small heaters for night and 100' plus of black irrigation line exposed to sun during day. For summer use mass aeration and make your water return like a rain shower. moving water and air cool, Think swamp cooler/mister. If that is still not enough cooling you have other options as well. Just like the heating irrigation coil, bury 100' of irrigation line 3 to 4 feet deep and run water through it, just like the heater but back to using earth to cool it. Being as 95% of the coil will be buried with no exposure to elements and below frost line it works well.
Jeff. we never stop water flow to sump tank only to grow beds at night. Several reasons. One, running the pumps at night actually reduces your DO(dissolved oxygen) in the tank/sump as no matter how hard one tried there is going to be some form of algae in there, At night algae uses mass amounts of oxygen for photosynthesis instead of sunlight. Two, it helps to control fluctuations in water temp. Constantly raising and lowering temps more than a few degrees daily is bad for your fish(diseases/stress) as well as can have adverse effects on colonization of beneficial bacteria. Three, A small solar panel can run your pumps all day but not at night unless you use battery backup.
Hope this helps. Any questions just hollar. James
Oct 1, 2015
lisa outland
I am not computer literate, so if my question is in the wrong place, please help to go to the right place. I am having an algae probable. Our system is only been running maybe a month. It is getting soupy where the water comes into the grow beds. We are using a Bell Syphon. Anyone else with this problem? What should we do? Thanks
Oct 11, 2015
Scott Bloom
I have started 2 systems and both of them got so green that I could not see more than 2 inchs below the surface. I am no expert at this but after letting it run for another month or so mine cleared right up. I think the systems are out of balance in the beginning and as they the system comes into a good cycle and balance the algae goes away.
Oct 11, 2015
Jeff S
Block all areas that are getting green from sunlight as much as possible.In your grow bed make sure the water level is below the surface of your media. The top media should never get wet. Place the inlet to your grow bed below the media surface to keep the water from splashing. Cover your fish yank with weed cloth, paint or some other sun blocking material. My Tilapia keep the fish tank algae free.
Oct 11, 2015
Dr. George B. Brooks, Jr.
Greetings. It has been my experience that soon after you get your pH down under 7 and you get a critical mass of plants growing to compete for the nutrients (that mass is different for every system) the algae go away.
Oct 12, 2015
Robert Rowe
@ Lisa Outland - I have solved my algae problems by simply taking direct sunlight away from my Fish Tanks. I have covers over my tanks about 6 ft from the ground and have shade screen around the perimeter which allows me to enter the enclosure for maintenance. I used to have problems with turbidity caused by algae. I also change out 300/1400 gallons water if my nitrite level gets in the 0.5-1.0 range (API). I can now see clearly to the bottom of my 24 " deep tanks.
Oct 12, 2015
Jim Fisk
Algae is a part of start up. Seems to happen to pretty near everyone. Sunlight is #1 culprit of course along with too many nutrients for the amount of plant growth. Having no patience I wanted the pea soup gone asap so I built a 30g (2500g system) Poly-Fil (Walmart 10.00) filter and ran the "bypass" water thru it before dropping back into the sump. It cleared up the water in 24hrs. Algae can be filtered out. Within 48 hrs our five 4' deep IBC FTs were all clear. I replaced the Poly after a week and it has been 3 yrs now with no cleaning of the filter since. I do keep a small airstone in the inlet pipe to avoid any anaerobic build-up. Here is an old pic of the filter from back then (2012). The Poly sits in a diaper pail the depth of the drum and cost another 8.00. The filter sits right over the buried IBC sump. Here's an old pic:
Oct 16, 2015
Jeff S
Jim, is that an electric meter in the left of your pic?
Oct 16, 2015
Jim Fisk
Jeff, yes. All the GH electric passes thru it. We have had such a small impact on our electric bill with the AP GH I have not ever kept track. Between 10 and 20$ at most. I got it off eBay years ago all set up with a 4 gang box. I think I paid @15.00.
Oct 16, 2015
Dr. George B. Brooks, Jr.
Just some cool pics from AGS-166 aquaponics at Mesa Community College (Mesa Az). P.S. We have been asked if we give tours? The answer is yes. Just inbox me.
First harvest ready (Oct 28th, 2015). Bibb lettuce from DWC.
Closeup of Bibb Buttercrunch Lettuce ready for harvest from DWC (Planted Sept 21st 2015).
DWC (40 ft2 growbed). (Day shot from Oct 29th 2015)
NFT finally kicking in (Oct 29, 2015)
Oct 31, 2015
Dr. George B. Brooks, Jr.
Now taking it down for the winter, this system that produced 210 pounds of food in 7 months. Also the foliage extending up over the tank on the left hand side is a luffa that trailed out of the tank, climbed up and took over that tree. It produced about 40 pounds of fruit before it was done.
Dec 8, 2015
Don Cole
If anyone is interested I have two (275 gal.) IBC's to give away just pick them up. They are cut for FT and GB one has a bazillion holes in it. It was used as a screen for washing gravel. If you are interested let me know I am in the northwest valley near 67th ave and Happeyvalley Rd.
Jan 18, 2016
Kari
HI Don!
I'm trying to get into aquaponics. If you're looking into giving the IBC's away, I'd love to come pick them up! Let me know when you are available.
Thanks,
Kari
Jan 19, 2016
Don Cole
Kari, I just sent you a friend invite. If you accept it I can message you to make arraingements for the IBC's.
Jan 19, 2016
Dr. George B. Brooks, Jr.
From a couple of years ago. Our big community tilapia salad bowl.
Jan 23, 2016
Don Cole
Are there any classes or seminars comming up in the Phoenix area?
Jan 26, 2016
Dr. George B. Brooks, Jr.
Mark Bogart at http://valleyaquaponics.net teaches classes so does http://www.endlessfoodsystems.com. In Tucson you have the Tucson Aquaponics Project http://tucsonap.org. Aquaponics is now part of the required curriculum for the urban agriculture degree program at Mesa Community College:
https://www.mesacc.edu/departments/applied-sciences-and-technology/...
Photo: The Spring 2016 ags-166 aquaponics class at Mesa Community College.
Jan 28, 2016
Clint Martineau
Looking to expand my system, does anyone have a connection for IBC totes?
Feb 20, 2016
David Schwinghamer
I have some ibc totes and grow beds
Feb 20, 2016
Dr. George B. Brooks, Jr.
I thought you might enjoy the quick vid made by my wife and master gardener Angela.
May 1, 2016
Dr. George B. Brooks, Jr.
New concepts are making aquaponics easier, less expensive and more mainstream. In this case it is great to hang out with our friends Catherine and Barry Cohen. Though just a few months old, their system is doing great, they are already harvesting from it tomatoes, lettuce and cucumbers and they do innovative things. For example, I would have never thought that fig trees could be rooted in aquaponics and their watermelons growing already.
May 4, 2016
Jim Troyer
Hi Everybody
It's about that time of year when we get an unwanted population explosion of tilapia in our systems. I have plenty of water and I'm always looking for more tilapia. If you need to reduce your population, store your fish or shut down your system I'll take them. Call or text me at 203.698.2626, I am just off the 101 in Scottsdale. Thank you!
Aug 1, 2016
Bob Wohl
Howdy all! I've moved and cycled up a new system. I'm now looking for a few fry. Any central phoenix sources? Most I am seeing is in Chandler/Gilbert. What options do we have available? I'm open to different species than just tilapia. My last setup had 150ish tilapia (a little out of hand imo) but I'm not complaining, just curious ;)
Oct 27, 2016
Dr. George B. Brooks, Jr.
The good people at B.O.S.S. (Buckeye (Arizona) Outreach for Social Services) are really getting the hang of managing their 3-Hour farm system. They got it through the cold and storms of January and February 2017 and now it is starting to grow again. Good job folks.
P.S. It is called a 3-Hour farm for that is how long it takes to build one from out the box to filling with water and turning on the air.
Powered by goldfish at the moment.
In photo:
Garlic, collard greens, two types of mustard greens, broccoli, tomatoes, lettuce and marigolds.
http://www.bosssite.org
Feb 20, 2017
Rob Simpson
Does anyone in the Phoenix area have any scuds/freshwater shrimp they are willing to sell and/or offer any experiences using them in aquaponics in Phoenix (heat tolerance, etc)?
Apr 11, 2017
Tom Bergstrand
I live up in Kingman. My neighbor has a pretty good set up right across the street. It seems to be producing very well. He is out of town for a few days but I will check it out closely when he returns. He has everything in a plastic greenhouse. He did it the hard way. Trial and error. I hope to learn from him and this forum.
Jul 24, 2017
Dr. George B. Brooks, Jr.
A new system going in at the Farm at South Mountain. Phx Az.
Nov 4, 2017
Kari Marsh
Hi all. I'm a beginner in this field and located down in Tucson, but am doing some research regarding successful aquaponic systems in Northern Sonora. Anyone working down there - or have a contact down there?
Dec 12, 2017
John Carlton
I live in Green Valley and have a system I am getting rid of (selling home and moving out of town) It is yours if you come pick it up. 1-320 gal IBC for fish, 4-1/2 280 gal grow beds, 75 gal sump tank, pump, pvc tubing, etc Please call John at 520-471-5622 if interested.
Thanks
John Carlton
Dec 12, 2017
Bob Wohl
Hi all, I've been running a raft bed this past winter for the first time and was great for all the greens. But now that it is starting to warm up, what are you growing in your raft beds through out the hotter months?
Mar 14, 2018
Kari Marsh
So, thanks to John Carlton, formerly of Green Valley, my 'aqua partner' and I are just getting a new garden set up. We changed the foot print a bit from how John had it set up, and basically have a tiered cascading system. SUPER simple! Getting ready to fill 'er up, and then try out the pump and plumbing. Now that we are having warmer nights, we plan to start out with a few gold fish and koi (both my partner and I want to have a few fish we can keep through the winter as pets and they will ultimately go in the lower sump tank) and then move into tilapia once it gets warmer. Anyone have suggestions for first greens to plant? See the attached pic for our garden set up. Appreciate any comments or suggestions...we are both newbies!
Mar 14, 2018
Larry
hello everyone long time no chat. I am looking to buy some more tilapia looking for about 25 fingerlings. anyone know a source?
Apr 18, 2018
Rob Simpson
Larry, I've got an active breeder tank. All of my current fingerlings are spoken for, but I'll let you know when the next set of wee ones are released from mommy's mouth.
Apr 19, 2018
Rob Simpson
Larry, I've got some ~1" tilapia available if you are still looking?
May 17, 2018
Dr. George B. Brooks, Jr.
KJZZ radio story on Aquaponics a Mesa Community College Mesa Arizona. Enjoy.
Here is the link: http://bit.ly/2svo4Cg
May 21, 2018
Dr. George B. Brooks, Jr.
Just looking for the best way of presenting the concept that IBCs are not needed for great aquaponics. Here is my latest experiment: http://bit.ly/2ukPYQ4
Jul 18, 2018
Michael Malcolm
Hi Arizona Aquaponic Gardeners! Im headed to AZ tomorrow morning and was hoping to check out some aquaponic gardens/ research tomorrow morning (9/27). I am currently conducting aquaponic research at the University of Maryland and would love to connect with some local gardeners in the Phoenix, Tuscon, and Flagstaff area!
Sep 26, 2018
Rob Simpson
Hi Michael, I'm in the Peoria area and available tomorrow. Curious about your research. You can ping me at rob@simpson-family.net.
Sep 26, 2018
Larry
Does anyone have some tilapia fingerling they would like to sell i am looking for about 15. I am restarting my system back up. Kind of let it go yo hell with life problems. but now back into it. Please Text me at 602-499-3857 if you can help.
Mar 14, 2019
Bob Wohl
Anyone know of some tricks to find a slow leak in pond liner? I have a tank I built that has been on a steady drip for about a year now. Its been easy to fill but I feel its getting worse. Lava rock probably got under the pump. I tried letting it drain till it stopped but it never did. Finding a pinhole in black is hard!
Mar 15, 2019
Don Minchella
I am the old gent celebrating his 89th year of life and getting engrossed in Aquaponics. My system will be complete by 4-30. I will begin the water cycles then and should be ready for some Talapia by 5-15.
My fish tank is 350gal and I have 3 grow beds of 100 gal each. If anyone will have some fingerlings available then please contact me.
Don M. (Wolverine)
Apr 17, 2019
Rob Simpson
I've got a bunch. Located in the Peoria area. You can ping me at rob@simpson-family.net
Apr 17, 2019
Don Minchella
Rob, I will ping you prior to the 15th of May. Thank you!
Since this is new system with a tank size of 350 gal, how many Talapia fingerlings would you recommend would you recommend.
Apr 17, 2019
Rob Simpson
Its more a function of your media bed volume than the tank size. I've got a 350 gal tank as well with 4 x 50 gal media beds and i can support 30lbs of tilapia quite easily. So I would start with 30 and you'll see at the end of the year how your system is doing. If you don't have one, would recommend adding an external swirl filter as once 30 fish get over 1lb they generate a decent amount of solids.
Apr 17, 2019
Matt Miskinnis
I forgot all about this forum. Hello fellow Aquapons!
Apr 17, 2019
Don Minchella
Rob,
Thank you for the info and yes I do have an external swirl tank and sump tank as part of the system. 30 lbs of Talapia sounds like a good number.
Is it possible that you may have that amount of Talapia by mid May?
Apr 18, 2019
Rob Simpson
I'll set aside 30 for you, most should be 3+ inches long by then
Apr 18, 2019