Thank you all for joining my group, I hope to do a lot with all anyone interested. Please
tell me any event suggestions you would like us to do.
Started by Dr. George B. Brooks, Jr. Mar 21, 2019. 0 Replies 0 Likes
Started by Dr. George B. Brooks, Jr. Jan 4, 2018. 0 Replies 0 Likes
Started by Dr. George B. Brooks, Jr. Jan 4, 2018. 0 Replies 0 Likes
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You would put the radial filter between the sump and the fish tank in your system. You will want to engineer a solids lifting drain in the FT to get the solids off the bottom and into the filter. A solids lifting drain tube is nothing more than a tube that has a water inlet near the bottom of tank and exits at or near the top creating a constant water level.
For others that may be reading this: filters should be upstream of the raft or media beds to either keep the media from clogging or the roots from gathering particulates.
Randy - Look into Radial Filters
any system should be fine with one pump if designed correctly
Hey guys I have a swirl filter question. I know how to construct but do I run a separate pump from the bottom of the fish tank to the swirl filter and let if free flow back into the sump? I am running an IBC tote with a 55 gallon sump.
Good news, I haven't had a fish die on over a week. I'm happy about that, I'm also paying close attention to how the fins and gills look in case I see that redness that the other fishes had.
Regarding Tilapia diseases, here are the links I shared on Facebook:
Diseases of Tilapia - An Introduction
http://www.thefishsite.com/articles/139/diseases-of-tilapia-an-intr...
http://www.aquaticcommunity.com/tilapia/Parasitic-Diseases.php
Sheri, I am trying to get the mini beds cycled to set on top of a 45 gallon aquarium in my house that sits in front of a window. I have one there now and seeds seem to take off well there. I was just wanting to replace it with a larger bed and eliminate the aquarium filter and the maintenance involved with them. Kinda like getting the best of both worlds.
Thank you, Randy. I'm rather partial to our bacteria & fishies, too. :)
As for yellow water, have you tested it? It could be related to ammonia or nitrates, but it could also be a discoloration from peat, coir, or other organic matter (fish pee or whatever). Our indoor tanks are almost always yellowish, but we don't fine-filter them as we would if they were normal show aquariums. Our outdoor tanks were green due to the over abundance of fish, the warm weather, and algae. Now that we're down to a smaller fish population they're a much nicer color!
Jeff, if your system is cycled, as determined by your tests, you don't have to worry about cycling again when you add growbeds. Cycling means you have enough bacteria in your entire system to convert all the waste to nutrients for the plants. Your beds will enhance your system by providing more space for bacteria, but they don't act independently of the rest of the system.
We keep lava rock in our fishtank that we use to start other systems. A good batch of bacteria can get things going in a couple weeks, but there are many variables. On that line of thought...it seems a number of people are experiencing health issues with their fish, as being discussed in the Facebook AZ Aquaponic group, so be careful about sharing water/bacteria between systems or from lakes/ponds. Be sure the source is in good health. In most cases you should be fine, but just pathogens are out there, so know it's a calculated risk.
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