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I have a terrible time telling the difference in color on the api master test for pH. I love my digital iron test, and it would be nice to test the other stuff that way. Right now I'd only add a digital pH tester but if a multi-test gadget is recommended among you all I think I'd buy one.

So- is anyone using electronic testers?

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Unfortunately the "multi-test" gadgets are all around a thousand bucks. I've got a couple of the hanna checkers - they're usually a little more reasonable. 

I have  PH and TDS testers and I agree with you. I'd prefer other digital testers. Fortunately I have several different tanks so I can compare readings to determine if something is screwy with the API tests. Now that I have more practice doing tests they are more consistent and when they aren't I just double test.

hanna has digital tests for almost everything if reading is an issue, They are a HUGE help to people with color blindness who need to be able to test there water. Those test kits are available through this site. 

Side note: Some of the hanna checkers have problems if you dose FeEDDHA. Specifically the Ammonia test, and the phosphate test. 

Good point. i dont use this form of iron in my system but i have also had false reading right after doseing maxicrop as well. Anything that stains the water can effect hanna tests.

Scott Roberts said:

Side note: Some of the hanna checkers have problems if you dose FeEDDHA. Specifically the Ammonia test, and the phosphate test. 

I just looked into the Hanna multi-tester. It requires reagents to perform the tests. If I'm using reagents I'll just stick with the API. It's just that sometimes I question the colors I see. Maybe someone can answer this question for me: Is an ammonia reading of 2.0-3.0 dangerous if the PH is under 7.0? I've never lost any fish and my ammonia #s are sometimes very high but my PH is very low making me think that I'm reading more ammonium than ammonia. If so is it safe to feed the fish?

Any ammonia reading is dangerous. Do not feed the fish. There should not be persistent ammonia levels (with the exception being right after feeding, and only small levels then). You need to get to the source of the problem - why isn't your biofilter working? 

it uses reagents but it gives a digital reading on a little screen. its easyer to read than the API because you dont need to tell what color it is teh little unit does that for you. Your ammonia should be .25 or lower. 

I hear what you're saying Scott. Based on everything I've read I should have tanks full of dead fish. If I cut the amount of food they basically won't be eating. My Nitirites are 0 and Nitrates are 80 to 120 so I'm assuming everything is cycling. I've heard ammonium is not harmful to fish and 7.0 PH and lower you have mostly ammonium and not ammonia. I've done up to 50% water changes but it doesn't take long for the ammonia #s to start going up even with minimal feeding.

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