A place for IBC tote systems to share what they have learned and system designs.
Members: 207
Latest Activity: Dec 18, 2020
Started by Blake Allen. Last reply by Yaacov Levi Jun 27, 2017. 14 Replies 0 Likes
Hello,I have the following IBC Tote setup (covered in another thread here) http://imgur.com/a/kU75t and I need to add another sump tank for additional water…Continue
Started by Blake Allen. Last reply by Blake Allen Jun 25, 2016. 18 Replies 0 Likes
Hello! Ive just got my new system up and running and your seeing my plumping in the middle of a rework. Before I cut to many pipes and give myself a bigger headache I thought I'd ask the community to…Continue
Started by Jeff S. Last reply by Jeff S Jun 13, 2016. 3 Replies 0 Likes
I'm planning to drain and clean my IBC fish tank but due to the amount of rain we've had I don't want to put it on my gardens right now. Is there any reason I shouldn't put in in my rain storage tank…Continue
Started by Craig Shevlin. Last reply by Jeff S Jan 2, 2016. 7 Replies 0 Likes
I need to bring 3 totes into basement.I will be cutting off the top 1 foot.How flexible are the totes to fold back to get through a 3' door way?Would rather not take door jams apart.CraigContinue
Comment
Steve-
That is the main reason I don't put anything on the bottom of my totes. The fish do just fine without it.
If you are wanting to get into breeding your own fish, you may want a designated tote just for this pourpose and then many fish build Redds, a shallow depression in the botton of the tank.
This will have to be designed with a different type of drainage system, exiting out the side of the tank so as not to disturbe the Redd. Along with its own grow bed / filter.
Hello Again all.
Out of curiosity what does everyone put on the bottom of the Totes? I put river rock, and I wonder if that is a mistake since it collects all the waste even though the siphon is at the bottom into a swirl filter. That could be why my nitrites are remaining high.
Steve.... Happy Mothers Day to all the Moms out there.
Hi Steve. I gave a detailed answer at your new topic above.
Hello All
Has anyone an easy way to get goldfish out of a Tote?
I came upon an old Trout raising book and thought this quote to be of interest. Source at the end.
"I think it is safe to say that sluggish flat water at 70 is dangerous,
if not fatal, to trout ; while they will live in vigorous
rapid water which occasionally runs to 80. I have
found 85 to be fatal to them in all kinds of water."
Source:
JAMES R. OSGOOD AND COMPANY, LATE TICKNOR & FIELDS, AND FIELDS, OSGOOD, & Co.1873
Good stuff. Keep your Trout water rolling!
Black pipe is the right one. It comes in various gauges but the thicker the longer lasting.
Jim, Thanks for the info. I am reworking the heater this year. Your system sounds cool but complicated to a simpleton like me. Can I use the black stove pipe and be safe with proper clearance? I built a fireproof closet for the stove but it wasn't emitting enough heat to have been a problem probably because it's an incinerator and not a stove and has a double wall.
Jeff, I would be negligent if I did not point out that that is not a "duct" in your photo but a chimney that WILL load up with very flammable creosote and when (not if) it catches fire you are going to be in big trouble. Even that metal duct tape is meant for hot air ducts rather than chimneys. All that flammable material around it can easily catch fire. Take it from a veteran volunteer fireman who has been heating with wood for 50 yrs now. I have had a chimney fire split a new lined brick chimney right in half. 2000F in that "duct" will set everything around it on fire.The more you cool the air in the chimney the more it will form creosote. And that galvanized hot air duct pipe is also not safe for a chimney. When it is super heated in a chimney fire situation it gives off very toxic fumes. Please do your homework on heating with any kind of solid fuels and the appropriate materials that should be used. You seem convinced that you are dealing with "hot air" and take my word for it: you are not. Be safe.
Hi Jeff, sorry I got no notice of your post.
My stove design is capable of a good 100K btus and that chamber on top is more complicated than it looks as it extracts most of the useable heat before it exits the GH. I can get the entire stove glowing red should I desire, so it must have room around it or PUFF goes the GH.
Before the flue gases leave the stove all the syngas (wood gas that normally goes unburned in the average stove) is burned at around 2000F in a ss chamber at the back of the lower barrel. The super heated exhaust then hits a replaceable baffle as it enters the upper chamber. Then it is directed to the front end and then up over a second baffle and toward the rear and finally into the flue and out of the GH into a metalbestos stovepipe chimney. You must have some heat left to drive the exhaust up and out unless you use a draft inducer at that end.
The heat output is controlled by a digital thermostat that drives an inlet fan that goes on and off depending on demand. The inlet fan air is preheated before it hits the syngas burner tube and the resultant burn can sound quite impressive. The next gen design (I have been designing these wood gasifiers since the mid 70's) will be even more impressive and clean burning. Hope to have that one on line for the house by Fall. I will reveal more on that in the future. Wood gasifiers are all the rage now. Ben Franklin was actually the pioneer on them and pretty much never gets any credit as everyone reinvents the wheel. Nothing new there.
If you do decide to heat the water as I do in this stove be sure to have a valve to control the flow of cold water as the resultant condensation can wreak havoc with your stove if not throttled back so as to stay warm. That very acidic condensation will eat thru most stoves unless made of ss.
As to pics, just go to your home page and load them up. Start by clicking on this button:
© 2025 Created by Sylvia Bernstein.
Powered by
You need to be a member of IBC Aquaponics to add comments!