IBC valve swap.

[Edwin Mercado]

Hoping someone has experience with this.

I have an IBC tote I was looking to add to my system as a sump, but the valve leaks quite a bit.  More than I'm willing to ignore.

I have what's left of another IBC that I cut into two beds.  I think that if I could swap the out the valves that I wouldn't have a problem, but all my attempts at removing it have been met with utter defeat.

Has anyone done this and did you need a special tool?

Thanks,

Ed.

[Edwin Mercado]

Okay, answering my own question, there is a tool called a "valve wrench" made for this.  Catchy name.

Problem is the wrench is pretty expensive.  I'll need to see if I can come up with a way of taking it off without the use of this wrench.

I'll post my findings if any.

Ed.

[TCLynx]

Can you simply cap the threaded end of the valve so it doesn't matter that the valve doesn't seal well.

[Edwin Mercado]

I thought of doing that and will if I can find something to cap it with.

[TCLynx]

Some IBC's have 2" pipe threads and a 2" PVC cap would work.  Some others seem to have a different thread and you would probably need a specialty cap to do the job.  (I learned the hard way that not all IBC fittings are the same.)

[Edwin Mercado]

I'll give it a try. Thanks.

[Vlad Jovanovic]

The most common type of thread on the outlet valve is 2" NPT (coarse),  European NW50, also known as DIN61 or S60 buttress (coarse) thread. The major suppliers of IBC's, Schutz, Sotralentz & Mauser have now standardised on this size on the valve outlet, thank goodness... You have a cap listed here...   $4.25 .....Part Number TPC010  http://www.tmmsupplies.com/replacementparts.html

Though, with a bunch of fidling, I was able to swap out a valve this past summer using just a flat-head screw driver (and small pliers which turned out to be unnecessary). A valve cap and 4 bucks would probably be easier though...