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Aloha Steve
Thanks for the kind words about my place. I truly am trusting God to show me what to do. You are asking about siphons, I use bell siphons right now. They can be tricky but I found out if you make them the same way each time and then just adjust the flow of water in and away from the siphon I have good results. I tkink you have to mature into them.
If you watched the last of the video about the meetup you will see Glen Martinez demonstrating what he calls a bucket siphon. These work everytime and will never flood nor stop. In the next 2 weeks I am going to arrange to go to Glens and learn how to make it and hope to share it with all It is amazing
Any siphon, even the most consistent ones are going to be dependent on flow rates into the bed as well as the water flow rate through the media (which will change over time due to roots and things.)
The Affnan version of a bell siphon is probably a good thing for you to look up as it has some advantages making it function at a slightly wider range of flow rates.
For something that will function under an even wider range of flow rates, look up a FLOUT which stands for Floating Outlet. Unfortunately Flouts require more space to work.
Perhaps it was blind luck but my first bells always worked and I have stuck with them ever since. I use a fast cascade to aerate with as well, but lately, I have been experimenting with a sand bed with a very simple bottom drain. It can have many configurations, but in essence, you work with a stand pipe that acts as the height control, and a perforated base to the stand pipe that drains slower than the inflow rate. If you operate a timed flooding cycle, the bed will fill up until it hits the overflow level of the stand pipe, and once the pump cuts out, it will simply drain away due to the perforated base of the stand pipe. It is not a siphon at all but cannot fail unless all the perforations clog up or the main drain line / stand pipe configuration clogs up.
I have seen some good pics recently of a modification of the siphon that I want to try. It is a riser pipe to the top of the bed, followed by two 90 degree turns in close succession to send the siphon down to the base of the grow bed again. It is cut off just before it touches the base of the bed, and the whole lot is protected with a guard pipe or mesh pot. It is a bit of a hybrid between a siphon and a loop, but it also looks relatively simple and fool proof. Can't remember who posted the picture but it is in the mix somewhere.
Perhaps it was blind luck but my first bells always worked and I have stuck with them ever since. I use a fast cascade to aerate with as well, but lately, I have been experimenting with a sand bed with a very simple bottom drain. It can have many configurations, but in essence, you work with a stand pipe that acts as the height control, and a perforated base to the stand pipe that drains slower than the inflow rate. If you operate a timed flooding cycle, the bed will fill up until it hits the overflow level of the stand pipe, and once the pump cuts out, it will simply drain away due to the perforated base of the stand pipe. It is not a siphon at all but cannot fail unless all the perforations clog up or the main drain line / stand pipe configuration clogs up.
I have seen some good pics recently of a modification of the siphon that I want to try. It is a riser pipe to the top of the bed, followed by two 90 degree turns in close succession to send the siphon down to the base of the grow bed again. It is cut off just before it touches the base of the bed, and the whole lot is protected with a guard pipe or mesh pot. It is a bit of a hybrid between a siphon and a loop, but it also looks relatively simple and fool proof. Can't remember who posted the picture but it is in the mix somewhere.
Some might call that one an internal goose neck siphon. I've done something similar to that externally as well sort of like a loop siphon but with hard pvc.
One of the first things I would warn against is trying to balance siphons for barrels cut the long ways. I have seen them work but they can be far trickier than anything else seeing as the varying volume by depth is going to make the siphon harder to stop as the barrel is almost empty and even harder to start as the barrel is almost full. If you must do siphons and must use barrels, I would recommend cutting the barrels around the middle to give yourself deeper round beds and siphons will be easier to get balanced right.
When you say extra 8 inches, do you mean bottom of the grow bed 8 inches above the top rim of the fish tank? Or are you saying the top of the grow bed 8 inches above the top edge of the fish tank?
I have done a grow bed next to a fish tank with the top of the grow bed only about 8 inches above the top edge of the fish tank and ran a loop siphon over the edge of the fish tank but that one was pretty tricky to get balanced. If the water level in the fish tank was up over the end of the loop it would affect the siphon kicking in or cutting out.
When you say extra 8 inches, do you mean bottom of the grow bed 8 inches above the top rim of the fish tank? Or are you saying the top of the grow bed 8 inches above the top edge of the fish tank?
I have done a grow bed next to a fish tank with the top of the grow bed only about 8 inches above the top edge of the fish tank and ran a loop siphon over the edge of the fish tank but that one was pretty tricky to get balanced. If the water level in the fish tank was up over the end of the loop it would affect the siphon kicking in or cutting out.
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