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Hello Everyone,

 

I'm in the cycling phase (fishless)of my system and was wondering if I needed a water heater to help things continue without any issues?  The outside air where I live has been cooler than normal, around 70 with nights dropping into the upper 40's to near 50.  The up coming weeks are where my concern is coming, the temps are only going to average in the 50's with night time temps in the 30's.  My fear is that the temps in the water will drop very low as well and slow the cycling process down.  The temp of the water is around 70 degree's at the moment.  Any input would be very appreciated.

Thanks

Al

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I would not worry about the temperature while cycling in your area. I would monitor the temperature of the fish tank to be sure it stays warm enough for the type of fish you plan to put in it. Be aware of temperature swing, I turn off circulation to the tank on cold nights to prevent rapid cooling of the water. I have three aquarium heaters in my tank (200 gal.) totaling 600 watts. They will not maintain a constant temperature, but they do slow the cooling during cold spells.

 

Thanks Randy.  Are their any suggestions you would have regarding a heater for my size tank(300 gallon)?

I live in the Keys and use two 400 W heaters in my 300 gallon tank. I have the same experience with the heaters keeping the tank in the mid to high 60s when it's in the 50s outside. I'm also turning off my pumps at night so I don't bring very cold water into the tank. It got down to 55 last night and that could have done in my tilapia. It still hasn't reached 60 here so I still have the heaters on. They are an energy hog but I don't want to lost my fish. I have the 400 W heaters because they were biggest glass heaters I could get, by the way. 

I think that there's somewhat of a rule of thumb for process water heating calculations where 4 to 5 watts per gallon is used on systems with less than 600 gallon total recirculated volume. And for systems with more than 600 gallons, 4 watts per the first 500 gallons plus 3 watts per each gallon above 500.  This assumes that total system circulation occurs at least once per hour,  I recommend that all AP heaters be controlled with a thermostat AND a flow switch or pump running interlock to prevent  overheating or localized burnouts.

In extreme cases where ambient temperatures are 30 deg. f. or more colder than desired water temp, other solutions like insulation, surface covers, flow rate controllers CAN help to prevent wild swings in temp. that will stress the fish.

Self regulating variable resistance heat trace cable simplifies maintaining a more constant temperature with fewer parts and worries.

here is a good DIY heater option.. it costs less than the aquarium heaters and actually will heat the water... in fact..be careful and use a controller,, these heater can boil 300 gallons of water.

submersible- http://community.theaquaponicsource.com/forum/topics/diy-heater-sub...

thru-wall- http://community.theaquaponicsource.com/forum/topics/diy-heater-bui...

Thanks guys for your input.  Rob, what type of wire do you use to connect to the heating unit?  Is that a standard extension cord that I can plug into a 15 or 20 amp outlet?  It looks like a perfect idea for my system.

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