I have a friend in Colorado he uses medicinal "herbs" i was telling him about ap wondering if others have seen or done this in their system if so how did it work as far as nutes and all ?
So true! Colorado says it's legal but that makes no diff to the Feds. My drug of choice is home brew beer - pretty darn strong but so much better than the commercial stuff! A little dab will do ya!
I hear you TC - I was thinking the same thing!!
Just because your state says it is legal doesn't mean the feds won't come after you.
LOL, what is funny is when I ready medicinal plants I was sitting here thinking about my aloe and my violets and plantain and all the other what I think of as "normal" medicinal herbs and food.
Hi Jon, Back in the early eighties, I use to live in Felton so I know what you mean. In fact, that, I believe, is one of the reasons I grow such fantastic tomatoes. We use to have an extraordinary op out on Mt Bitchin that was located up in the canopies. If you can grow one, you can grow the other. They have almost identical needs.
NEVER trust the feds! Oh -bee boy (Obama) lies through his teeth. The war is very much still on.
I'll have to check out those you-tube videos...Her's an idea though. Right now I have 3 Habenero's and 2 Hungarian Hot Wax pepeprs set up in a "dual root zone" scenerio...
Check it out, you take a 'large'-ish net pot (mine are only 13cm for the peppers but you just use a size that you think you'd need). fill the bottom half of the net pots with hydroton, fill the top half with a 1/3 cocco coir, 1/3 perlite, 1/3 vermiculaite (you can add to that mix 10% worm castings and a bit of zeolite as I've done if you wish). In between those two layers, I've placed a thin layer of rockwool to act as a filter (to keep the upper layer from falling into the hydroton. The bottom layer of the net pot sits in a reservoir of just water, no nutes. The top layer is absorbant (you need to test how much water your particular set-up will hold before water drips down into the hydroton, so that you know how much solution to feed without contaminating the reservoir). I'm feeding home made nutes in solution into the top portion only. I only add as much solution as the top layer can absorb. This keeps the nutes from contaminating the water reservoir. (or an AP system). It might be a good way to add 'flowering' or any other nutes without those things getting into your AP system. (As well as some other potential benefits, the idea here being that plants in nature tend to have specialized sets of roots, top roots seeking nutrients, while bottom roots seek out moisture blabla...) Just a thought?
I like it Vlad- that's a really good idea. Jon, I had osmocote get into my mix several years ago (it's a long story. . .) and the little plastic coatings take forever to decompose. I found that they end up getting all through the system and end up being a pain in the butt. If there was a way to keep them completely separate though- that might work. I think Vlad is onto something- if you could section your root zone into a low salt and a high salt area and use liquid fertilizer directly on the upper, high salt zone you could do flood and drain, or constant flow or whatever you wanted really and just irrigate the upper portion as much as you need for nutrient delivery while using the AP water below to keep your plant from drying out. . . hmmmm. very interesting idea. It might be a way to deliver concentrated nutrients during reproductive stages without impacting the baseline health of your AP system. .
Yes Vlad, I too am interested in how things turn out for you. I do a similar thing with my wick bed system in that I top water only so the top layer of compost/ mulch gets moist enough to breakdown further.
*Beware of sulfur and metals like copper in your time release nutes.
Jon...In one of the two set-ups there is an 'air layer' of relatively high humidity (kind of like the updated Gericke system) and the water line should never be higher than your rockwool 'barrier' (lower even, it seems to wick pretty well). If you have some fine screen material, you could line the net pot to further help keep "contaminants" from getting out. I've avoided CRF's and opted for using Zeolite (though in an AP this may or may not be 'worse' than CRF's I have no idea, mine is a really fine granular affair...powder realy and I doubt even the screen mesh would keep it out?) Zeolite, it is believed, should act as a 'magnet' for certain ionic elements, thereby holding them there for plant ready accessibility. That's the idea anyway. And besides, it's ("natrual-ness" was more appealing than CRF's...yeah I know, mining the Earth is not really "natrual" but still)...I'd like to get a couple tons for the garden/fields...Even if it dents your compost/fertilizer needs by 25% for the next 10 years (like some studies would indicate) it would be worth the little investment many times over..? And your elemental input potion would still be up to you, in terms of what/how (organic/mineral/chemical) you were to supply the land...Which is a plus over some CRF's...
Particularly like Cary says in terms of metals. Though a nitrogen sequestering substance probably poses it's own set of problems in an AP system...IDK
Are 'smart-pots' the same (in principal at least) as Jim Fah's auto-pots? ...sub irrigation with float valve i.e 'smart-valve'? I'm guessing that it's not because of the tyvek/fabric/wicking, but heck yeah, I'd probably build one (at least :) if you show me how...At the moment the whole NASA Star-Treky atmosphere of aeroponics has me intrigued. Simple enough with classic hydoponics, though not so much with organic hydro and I'm guessing AP. And I'd really like it to be an AP aeroponic set-up...but with fine mist (well relatively)...I 'think' I may have something worked out that should put an end to clogging issues of these spray misters without the need for fine micron filtration...Wont really know til I get some damn fish though and put it through the wringer...
No, not that I could tell. They ate some of the pellets but it didn't seem to bother them. : )