I'll be devils advocate and encourage people to use local/native species that don't need much heating if any (of course I realize that those in cold climates will need heating to keep the water in the greenhouse from freezing in the pipes.)
I understand using native fish but why I need heat in my tanks I love to eat Tilapia, so that is why I choose to raise them. If you would like to build a great heater, like I stated above check out my YouTube videos.
They bit the heater enough that it broke, so that their water had no heat. Not exactly eating it but I assume some plastic was eaten. Just wanted to know if it's normal behavior.
This stove will heat your greenhouse and AP system for a couple of bucks a day. Soon it will be UL listed, which means you can heat your house and if your AP system is in the house the tanks are heated as well! Their new primary burn chamber and dampner regulates the stove down to burning about a pound of pellets an hour on low. Running continuously, it would still only cost about $3 a day to heat your house or greenhouse and AP system.
does anyone know of a 120v stainless steel water heater element? It seems most all you can find online are 240v or if they are 120v they are copper, nickel or zinc. Also, when talking stainless steel, what is the difference between resistored stainless steel and non-resistored stainless steel? Would they both be considered safe for aquaponics?
Hi i am using an ibc tote for my fish tank and filled it to 200 gallons. I put two 300 watt fish tank heaters to keep it warm. My set up is in my garage. Do you guys think this will be enough to keep my tank warm?
What kind of fish do you have? Are you growing anything in your AP system? If you want the fish to eat, it needs to be anywhere from 55 - 75 degree water. The optimum environment for the fish, bacteria, and plant root zones are 70 degrees. Provided there is enough light and nutrients to keep everything happy. It is a balancing act of all these factors: Light, nutrients, minerals, PH, and temperature.
Trout will be happy at the low end of the spectrum, Tilapia at the other end. What a fish will tolerate and what it will thrive in are two different things. Tilapia like 80 degree water. Mine do well in 70 degree water but will not reproduce at that temperature.
Your bacteria and root zone are most productive when kept at 65 - 70 degrees. Cooler than that, and your bacteria diminish in there ability to do their job and many of your plants will slow their uptake of nutrients. Too warm is not good for them either. Lack of light will cause leggy growth in a warm environment, and usually results in bug problems, as well as a lack of nutrients.
If you keep your water and air temp on the cool side through winter, the metabolism of your fish will slow, they will eat less, your plants will slow their growth in response to the lack of warmth, light, and nutrients. Inncrease the temp and light, your fish will eat more, create more waste, the bacteria will become more active increasing the nutrient supply to your plants and your plants will grow more.
Is the garage insulated or is it pretty close to the same temperature as outside? You said it snowed last night so I'm assuming it's at least in the 20-30's at night. Also, what type of fish do you have? Like Rick said the water temp you maintain is going to be a compromise between what's best for you fish, bacteria and plants. That doesn't mean you can't keep your water at 80 degrees F which would be ideal for tilapia (and they will reproduce at this temperature) but not ideal for most plants and bacteria. Like the fish many plants and bacteria can adapt to this 'not' ideal temperature :)
I am still trying to get set up. I dont have any fish yet but i was thinking of starting wih goldfish. I live in new mexico so i wont be able to legally get tilapia without a permit. I have duckweed in it now but its not really growing yet. The water has been cold and i only put my heaters in lastnight.
Goldfish will survive just about anything. Keeping it cooler is probably a good idea as they will eat less and take longer to foul the water. This will give you more time to get your system going. I would raise the temp slowly as you begin the system, giving time for the bacteria to establish itself to to help keep the water suitable for the fish. The fish can tolerate a good amount of nitrogen, but high levels of ammonia will kill your fish.
I got 2 300w aquarium heaters on ebay for $21. Im just using 2 and my tank stays a good temp. It gets down to about 60 at night and gets up to about 70 during the day. my tank is holding 200 gallons and is inside my uninsolated garage. I guess if 1 went out during winter i would have to get a new heater from petsmart $35-$50 but if you can wait and order a new one on ebay that would be cheaper.
Right now I have 3 400w heaters in my tank, I took one off line as the temps are keeping pretty constant. Luckily in AZ we don't have to deal with intense cold so the two heaters are working fine. I also covered my FT and ST as algae was starting to accumulate in the fish tank, Since I'm fishless cycling right now, I dont want algae giving me false readings in my water testing. I also added two air stones as I was finding mosquitoes starting to breed, I figured if I have the water moving around more those mosquitoes will go away, and what the hell fish like air bubbles anyway. It's a learning experience for sure!
I am using a 12 x 4 pool heater solar mat, supplied by a Ben and Glen Aquazen air lift water pump. The draw back now that Fall is here and the shadow of the house interferes. So I get only 3 hours of heat.
Folks, I've built an electric heater for my system, and looking to make a solar barrel heater--but when I search solar I find probably 200+ pages. When it comes to flow through heaters, is it more economical to buy an above ground solar pool heater or build your own. I live in northern Virginia, just outside DC and my tanks are in a greenhouse. I'm looking to cut back on electricity by using solar. Any suggestions?
Robert, research heat exchangers since sending system water through a pool heater is likely to clog up the fine tubes and most domestic hot water systems for solar heating have copper tubing which would be bad for fish.
Cheapest methods I've seen entail getting the coils of the black poly drinking water pipe (1/2" or 3/4" or 1") and making a big flat coil in a black box with a glass covering. Only send the water through it when sun is shining on it or it may act more like a chiller. This is one of the few system types that doesn't require doing heat exchange.
I should have set this up as a new topic. I currently am using 3 aquarium heaters, perhaps as a temporary fix.
My 700 gallon stock tank type FT is covered by a 10 Ft geodasic dome. I have removed the skin and am in the process of recovering it with "The Planket" a frost cover. The FT is covered now with a blue plastic pool cover, to retain heat, but still allows infrared to penetrate to the water. My experience last year covering my smaller FT with frost cloth about a Ft above the water was productive so I am scaling up the process. So far, before the temperature gets to low, I am recording my results and will share my findings.
Well I'm super excited to find this site as a newby. I've had cichlids for a few years and also have 3,600 sq ft of double poly greenhouse. It's providential to finally find their marriage in aquaponics! I'm trying to design a large (ambitious) system of about 2200 sq ft of media beds (1000') & DWC (1,200'). I have a pool business and I'm considering what things I can cross over - liner, pump, nat gas heater etc. it looks like about 2000 gallons of tank water and just over 16,000 gal of water in the beds. I'm in southwestern Ontario and it seems that for the most part I can keep the greenhouses fairly warm over winter but is pool heater (gas) overkill? The hot summer temps have been intense, is a chiller of some sort recommended? If so, can anyone suggest something for this size/volume? :D
We live in North Texas, zone 8. Our system is in a metal hoop greenhouse. Right now, it is not covered in plastic and it is still pretty warm here.
There are !5 goldfish about 3" long in a standard size IBC, 8 blue half barrels, hydroton media beds, with okra, wax beans, kale, chard, lettuce, and a few other small plants. Our system is up and running, on an automatic timer 15 minutes flood, 30 minutes drain.
We would like to put a submersible heater in the IBC this winter. Building one is really outside of my level of expertise, so purchase is the option here. Am I shopping for a pond heater ? Any advice is much appreciated.
My heaters are similar to the ones on youtube. Except they are Bob Taylor's design - thanks again buddy. They are 1000 watt stainless steel water heater elements in PVC pipe with circulation and a temp controller. The controller cost is excessive.
I have 12-IBCs in banks of 6 - all wrapped with 2" Styrofoam board. The heaters are in the sumps for each bank of IBCs' filter system. The filter system is identical to the one that Mineral Springs Tilapia has on its website - thanks again Greg. Greg uses bucket heater – about $50.00 – in his sump
I use the same heater set up for my 6-1200 gallon grow out tanks, except I use 2-of them in each tank. My electrical cost is under control because in addition to being a Washington registered /licensed aqua farmer, the electric company gives me a HUGE electrical rate discount because of being a licensed/registered Aqua Farm.
As for Tilapia eating heaters, I have not seen that yet, but my big male T. Hornorums will devour about anything that falls in the tanks. They love their grasshopper and red worm treats.
TCLynx
Apr 2, 2011
Eldon Stanford
Sep 25, 2011
Randy Moss
Sep 27, 2011
TCLynx
Sep 27, 2011
Randy Moss
Sep 27, 2011
john tramell
RANDY THANKS FOR THE HEATER FITTINGS. LOOK GOOD THANKS JOHN T.
Sep 27, 2011
Randy Moss
Sep 27, 2011
Eric Warwick
Has anyone else experienced tilapia eating the heater before?
Dec 3, 2011
TCLynx
How would they eat a heater?
Dec 4, 2011
Eric Warwick
They bit the heater enough that it broke, so that their water had no heat. Not exactly eating it but I assume some plastic was eaten. Just wanted to know if it's normal behavior.
Dec 4, 2011
TCLynx
I'll have to leave some one else to answer on this one since I've never had tilapia in a heated tank, which is why I no longer have tilapia.
Dec 4, 2011
matthew ferrell
Tilapia pick at anything in the tank trying eat the bio-film off the objects. They can and will eat rafts as well.
Mar 9, 2012
Rick Stillwagon
May 21, 2012
Rick Stillwagon
This stove will heat your greenhouse and AP system for a couple of bucks a day. Soon it will be UL listed, which means you can heat your house and if your AP system is in the house the tanks are heated as well! Their new primary burn chamber and dampner regulates the stove down to burning about a pound of pellets an hour on low. Running continuously, it would still only cost about $3 a day to heat your house or greenhouse and AP system.
Jun 26, 2012
Benjamin Udy - Super Genius
does anyone know of a 120v stainless steel water heater element? It seems most all you can find online are 240v or if they are 120v they are copper, nickel or zinc. Also, when talking stainless steel, what is the difference between resistored stainless steel and non-resistored stainless steel? Would they both be considered safe for aquaponics?
Dec 9, 2012
coty
Jan 15, 2013
Benjamin Udy - Super Genius
depends on what the temperature in your garage is.
Jan 15, 2013
coty
Jan 15, 2013
Rick Stillwagon
What kind of fish do you have? Are you growing anything in your AP system? If you want the fish to eat, it needs to be anywhere from 55 - 75 degree water. The optimum environment for the fish, bacteria, and plant root zones are 70 degrees. Provided there is enough light and nutrients to keep everything happy. It is a balancing act of all these factors: Light, nutrients, minerals, PH, and temperature.
Trout will be happy at the low end of the spectrum, Tilapia at the other end. What a fish will tolerate and what it will thrive in are two different things. Tilapia like 80 degree water. Mine do well in 70 degree water but will not reproduce at that temperature.
Your bacteria and root zone are most productive when kept at 65 - 70 degrees. Cooler than that, and your bacteria diminish in there ability to do their job and many of your plants will slow their uptake of nutrients. Too warm is not good for them either. Lack of light will cause leggy growth in a warm environment, and usually results in bug problems, as well as a lack of nutrients.
If you keep your water and air temp on the cool side through winter, the metabolism of your fish will slow, they will eat less, your plants will slow their growth in response to the lack of warmth, light, and nutrients. Inncrease the temp and light, your fish will eat more, create more waste, the bacteria will become more active increasing the nutrient supply to your plants and your plants will grow more.
Balance all the factors for dormancy or growth.
Jan 15, 2013
Benjamin Udy - Super Genius
Is the garage insulated or is it pretty close to the same temperature as outside? You said it snowed last night so I'm assuming it's at least in the 20-30's at night. Also, what type of fish do you have? Like Rick said the water temp you maintain is going to be a compromise between what's best for you fish, bacteria and plants. That doesn't mean you can't keep your water at 80 degrees F which would be ideal for tilapia (and they will reproduce at this temperature) but not ideal for most plants and bacteria. Like the fish many plants and bacteria can adapt to this 'not' ideal temperature :)
Jan 15, 2013
coty
Jan 15, 2013
Rick Stillwagon
Goldfish will survive just about anything. Keeping it cooler is probably a good idea as they will eat less and take longer to foul the water. This will give you more time to get your system going. I would raise the temp slowly as you begin the system, giving time for the bacteria to establish itself to to help keep the water suitable for the fish. The fish can tolerate a good amount of nitrogen, but high levels of ammonia will kill your fish.
Jan 15, 2013
coty
Jan 15, 2013
coty
Feb 16, 2013
Matt Miskinnis
Right now I have 3 400w heaters in my tank, I took one off line as the temps are keeping pretty constant. Luckily in AZ we don't have to deal with intense cold so the two heaters are working fine. I also covered my FT and ST as algae was starting to accumulate in the fish tank, Since I'm fishless cycling right now, I dont want algae giving me false readings in my water testing. I also added two air stones as I was finding mosquitoes starting to breed, I figured if I have the water moving around more those mosquitoes will go away, and what the hell fish like air bubbles anyway. It's a learning experience for sure!
Feb 17, 2013
Jay
I am using a 12 x 4 pool heater solar mat, supplied by a Ben and Glen Aquazen air lift water pump. The draw back now that Fall is here and the shadow of the house interferes. So I get only 3 hours of heat.
Oct 15, 2013
Robert J
Folks, I've built an electric heater for my system, and looking to make a solar barrel heater--but when I search solar I find probably 200+ pages. When it comes to flow through heaters, is it more economical to buy an above ground solar pool heater or build your own. I live in northern Virginia, just outside DC and my tanks are in a greenhouse. I'm looking to cut back on electricity by using solar. Any suggestions?
Oct 18, 2013
TCLynx
Robert, research heat exchangers since sending system water through a pool heater is likely to clog up the fine tubes and most domestic hot water systems for solar heating have copper tubing which would be bad for fish.
Cheapest methods I've seen entail getting the coils of the black poly drinking water pipe (1/2" or 3/4" or 1") and making a big flat coil in a black box with a glass covering. Only send the water through it when sun is shining on it or it may act more like a chiller. This is one of the few system types that doesn't require doing heat exchange.
Oct 20, 2013
Jay
Yes on the pool mat heater the small tubes clog up, that is why we put a back flush valve to blow them out.
Now again it works like new.
Nov 4, 2013
Robert Rowe
I should have set this up as a new topic. I currently am using 3 aquarium heaters, perhaps as a temporary fix.
My 700 gallon stock tank type FT is covered by a 10 Ft geodasic dome. I have removed the skin and am in the process of recovering it with "The Planket" a frost cover. The FT is covered now with a blue plastic pool cover, to retain heat, but still allows infrared to penetrate to the water. My experience last year covering my smaller FT with frost cloth about a Ft above the water was productive so I am scaling up the process. So far, before the temperature gets to low, I am recording my results and will share my findings.
Nov 4, 2013
Hockey Sox
Feb 5, 2014
kimlee kingston
We live in North Texas, zone 8. Our system is in a metal hoop greenhouse. Right now, it is not covered in plastic and it is still pretty warm here.
There are !5 goldfish about 3" long in a standard size IBC, 8 blue half barrels, hydroton media beds, with okra, wax beans, kale, chard, lettuce, and a few other small plants. Our system is up and running, on an automatic timer 15 minutes flood, 30 minutes drain.
We would like to put a submersible heater in the IBC this winter. Building one is really outside of my level of expertise, so purchase is the option here. Am I shopping for a pond heater ? Any advice is much appreciated.
Oct 16, 2014
Leo White Bear
kl-contact me off group, I have a few videos and info on how to make your own heaters. It is not at all difficult.
sha_man_1@yahoo.com
Oct 16, 2014
Rob Nash
here is the link to the DIY heater..
http://community.theaquaponicsource.com/forum/topics/diy-heater-sub...
Oct 17, 2014
Rob Nash
Submersible heaters
Oct 17, 2014
Rob Nash
here is the through wall version..
http://community.theaquaponicsource.com/forum/topics/diy-heater-bui...
Oct 17, 2014
Phil Slaton
My heaters are similar to the ones on youtube. Except they are Bob Taylor's design - thanks again buddy. They are 1000 watt stainless steel water heater elements in PVC pipe with circulation and a temp controller. The controller cost is excessive.
I have 12-IBCs in banks of 6 - all wrapped with 2" Styrofoam board. The heaters are in the sumps for each bank of IBCs' filter system. The filter system is identical to the one that Mineral Springs Tilapia has on its website - thanks again Greg. Greg uses bucket heater – about $50.00 – in his sump
I use the same heater set up for my 6-1200 gallon grow out tanks, except I use 2-of them in each tank. My electrical cost is under control because in addition to being a Washington registered /licensed aqua farmer, the electric company gives me a HUGE electrical rate discount because of being a licensed/registered Aqua Farm.
As for Tilapia eating heaters, I have not seen that yet, but my big male T. Hornorums will devour about anything that falls in the tanks. They love their grasshopper and red worm treats.
Oct 26, 2014