A place to exchange information on breeding tilapia. How to set up tilapia breeding colonies. How to sex fish for breeding colonies. What foods are best for breeding pairs and fingerlings.
next time, I would suggest you not move the female with eggs. Move all the other fish. this will have less stress on the female with eggs.. anyone agree or disagree???
Ya all are awesome and thanks for the info. My IBC will actuall be cut more 1/3 2/3 and not in half. I will make sure I have at least 12" growing bed is that enough. I am also planning on a continuous flood and drain method. I found a local aquaponic supplier near me, whoo hoo, where I can get the clay ball medium but it is a little expensive.
I agree, unfortunately she had eggs in my 300 gal tank with 20 other adult tilapia. I only had one other 50 gal tank hooked up to the system. I couldn't put 19 half pounders in there, (not without hooking up the stereo!).
Any idea how long she will hold onto the little ones?
From what I am reading ... I am assuming that the adults in the tank will eat the young fry. So you are suggesting moving the adults away from the female with eggs. Is there a way to provide an area within the same tank for this so as not to move any fish out of the tank? Just asking?
Also to answer back to some comments and suggestions... I am in Miami so winterizing I don't think is an issue. I also found a place within an hours drive where I can get adults and fingerling. What is the best way to transport them?
I'd amend Jon's comment about the love connection. It's more of a temporary lust connection! LOL!
Aaron, she'll hold the eggs for a couple weeks before releasing them. Then she'll play mamma for a few days, gathering and releasing the fry to protect them. Soon enough they'll become independent, but she'll continue to protect them for close to a week. After that, she tolerates them and, I suspect, will snack on them occasionally. I recommend separating her from the fry a week after she starts releasing them; about when her protective behaviors settle down.
Bob, 12" is deep enough for just about any garden food. We have had great success with peppers, salad, spinach, strawberries, bok choy.... Choose what you like to eat & go for it!
Regarding moving fish, we've moved them in both directions and it's been equally awkward. It's definitely less stress on the female (and on us) to move the other fish, but you have to have a tank large enough to handle them, so it depends on how many you have and where they are in the first place.
The risk in moving the female is that quite often she'll spit out the eggs when being moved, so you have to have a container to move her in just in case she does. So far we've been fortunate that our mothers have picked most of their eggs up again after calming down, but there's a bit of attrition, and if she's stressed enough, she'll abandon the eggs.
That said, we have "nursery" tanks we put our brooding females in that give them peace and privacy. When we pull the mothers out, the tank becomes the fry tank, aka, "elementary school." When they're about 1", we move them outdoors to the "middle school" until they're fingerlings. The ones we keep go into the "high school" (fingerling tank) until they're large enough to join the more aggressive adult world.
We're still trying to figure out the best way to handle it; I think we'll be making some kind of net container that we can use to move the mothers out of our breeding tank with as little stress as possible, that will capture lost eggs, and that is easy to access for the mother so she can collect dropped eggs.
This may not sound like a good option for you, but I put the female with eggs in a 10 gallon tank. Only because I didn't know any better. However after she did not keep the babies in her mouth any longer (about 2 weeks) I moved her to the main tank. Fry are doing very well, growing every day. I have an 80 gallon tank with 6 tilapia 6-8" and a 60 gallon tank with 10 3-6". Both have grow beds above them. Hope to keep a nice cycle going and fill my freezer with fresh fish. The 10 gallon tank is working for now but think I may go to a 20 gallon.
Your welcome, Dave, likewise.
Aaron, eggs hatch about a week after being layed, and fry are not allowed back into mama's mouth for about another week or two, if she is isolated in her own tank. If she's by herself, fry are allowed out more often and grow quicker, shortening that window.
Bob, adult tilapia will eat anything that's easy, including fry. If they are well fed, and there are plenty if hides, then many of the fry will survive if kept with the adults. Also, fry tend to collect near the surface once free of the brooding mother, and can be skimmed with a net without handling mothers at all. You can also make a floating basket from a PVC frame and say 1/2" plastic mesh and fake plants or hula skirts draped below it. The young fry will seek shelter at the surface above the fake grass, and you can skim the fry periodically with a net.
I transport mine with a kitchen waste bag lining a 5 gallon bucket, filled half full of water, and the the bag drawstring cinched to avoid spillage. If more than an hour, add an airstone and air pump, easily powered with a 12 v inverter. I have kept hundreds of fry and adults alive this way for up to a week while traveling.
About shrimp, sure it's possible, have at it. Malaysian prawns are often grown under rafts. I raise redclaws in the same tanks as tilapia with no trouble, just give them some shelter.
Dave, Stickfin ships to Cali, so I'd assume they most anywhere. I got 18 small breeders, and two became "berried" within a week of receiving them.
I personally think it is least disruptive to net the mother and bring her to isolation, using two nets, one in each hand, and move very slowly, the slower the better. Once out if the water, move her very quickly to prepared tank, and leave her alone, don't even look at here, just close the door and go grab a cocktail. Most if the time, especially if you're at day 7, she won't spit a single egg. After a mother has made this trip a few times, she never spits eggs (in my experience).
I have 5 crays in my 300 gal tank with about 25 adult male tilapias. I have 1.5 and 2" PVC for my crays to hide in. I have not seen them since I put them in there, about 2 mos ago.
I can see the 2 crays in my 140 gal aquarium.. I hope the crays will not bother the tilapia mother if she ever lays eggs. What do you think?
If by "crays" you mean redclaws, then I don't see them giving your tilapia any trouble. Redclaws are very gregarious and more vegetarian than other crays. However, tilapia tend to settle on the floor at night, and I wouldn't put it past a hungry crawfish of any kind to sample a sleeping fingerling. Also, when hungry, tilapia may sample a crawfish leg and find it tasty enough to ruin the peace.
Tilapia and crays both will escape a tank if allowed to, redclaws are quite prone to 'walkabout'. Screening all tanks is a good idea, keeps predators out as well.
Bob, I fear you may find you need more of a pump than a little solar fountain pump. You want to make sure to move at least the volume of your fish tank once each hour.
I've never seen a little solar fountain pump that would more anywhere near 200 gallons an hour, let alone do it while lifting the water more than 18 inches.
I've been reading this forum and separated 6 fish from my 175 gal tank to a 50 gal tank. I attempted to sex them but was unsure which were which, possibly because they were fairly small around 5" each. I set the heater to 85 degrees and waited 2 weeks reading this thread and watching them change colors and establish a pecking order. The largest fish swept the gravel clean in front of a clay flower pot and 2 days later 1 of my fish had eggs in her mouth. I caught her and moved her to a clean 10 gal tank with only a heater and an air stone. She dropped her eggs during the transfer but scooped 98% of them back up a few hours later. 2 Days later I had another female with eggs in her mouth and no more tanks so I cut 1 of my foam rafts for veggies into a barrier and split the 10 gal tank in 1/2. Two days later I noticed both females on 1 side of the barrier. Apparently, the more aggressive smaller female wormed her way under the 1" gap at the bottom and was picking on the larger female (the one added to the tank 2nd) The 1st fish was attacking the 2nd fish and made the larger female drop all of her eggs! She did all of this with a mouth full of eggs! So not having another tank I removed the no longer pregnant female and the extra eggs disappeared? Six days later, The small female had about 100 babies. This has been a great experience and I wanted to thank everyone for all of the knowledge. The female that lost her eggs was placed back in the 50gal tank with the rest and now has another large mouthful of eggs. Looks like I am going to have quite a few fish soon
How fun, David! From what I understand, females are totally arbitrary in their behavior when brooding. Some will do as yours did & fight others. We had one once who did the opposite--she picked up and carried another female's eggs. We've also had two brooders carry together and protect their fry together. You just never know.
Your territorial female may have picked up the dropped eggs & nurtured them.100 seems like a lot for a 5" fish in her first brooding, but it's hard saying. She may just as easily have eaten them. (They'll eat any eggs that don't develop), although other than bad eggs that are already in the mouth, they don't eat while brooding.
Yes, congrats David. I'd say 10 gallons is a bit tight for 2 brooders. Next time you're short of space, try a simple 5 gal bucket. I currently have 3 brooders in a 30 gallon tank (which actually lowers to 20 gallons during the flood cycle). The mamas scrap a little, but have always kept their eggs. First-time mothers have smaller batches usually, but I've had 4" mothers carry over 300 (not her first rodeo). In fact, she is such a consistent breeder that she doesn't grow anymore, stunted at 4" because she gets right to business when returned to the main tank, producing about 350 fry every three weeks.
Thanks Jon. I was kinda panicing because it was such a small space and they were so aggressive I didn't want them both to lose the chance at motherhood. Instead it looks like there was some assault then kidnapping going on. It has been a great experience and the babies are so much fun to watch. They get so big so fast and are jetting around the tank. I went and got another 29gal tank for the next batch
Sorry to tell you Bob but I seriously doubt that pump will be enough all on it's own.
When they call it a 500 lph pump that amount of flow is if the water is not being lifted at all. At it's max lift of 1.4 meters, it won't be moving more than a dribble of water if that.
But then you area talking about a fish tank that is an IBC? so you should be moving more like 1000 lph to begin with and you will need to lift the water a little bit so even a 1000 lph pump isn't going to cut it. You need a pump that can provide about 1000 lph of flow at probably 2-3 foot of head.
So even at a 24/7 flow this is will not work? That is a shame ...guess I will have to rethink this. I really wanted to be off the electric grid for this project.
I agree Bob, pump too small to be used by itself. You could use it for aeration, and configure another pump to operate a flood and drain cycle, maybe come on 10 minutes every couple of hours to fill the GB's. Solar certainly feasible, just not that simple.
Cost is also an issue with a solar system. The linked one was very reasonable. I read someplace that 2 gallons per minute was a good flow rate, is that not correct? That would be 120 gallons per hour and that pump has a flow rate of 132.09 gallons per hour. This is my confusion do you think this model would work ... http://www.esolarlighting.com/8W-Solar-Powered-Water-Pump-With-Batt...
Bob, you have to look at two numbers on the pumps. The gph is max flowthrough, but it doesn't account for gravity. The lift is the max it will raise water...any water...not the total gallons promised. So the higher the lift, the lower the gallons it can pump.
We're currently running a 258 gph with a 6'4" lift, and it's doing the job in a tote 1' shorter than yours, lifting about 4'. It's doing the job, though in the ideal world we'd have it a little larger. You'll be lifting at least a foot higher than this. So while you might get away with one the size of ours, your circulation won't be optimal. The added investment will be worth the gain.
Bob, the 2 gpm is the recommendation for minimum flow through a raft bed, not necessarily the minimum flow for the filtration of water for a 200 + gallon fish tank with a media bed.
To pump your 200 gallons of fish tank each hour, you need at least 3.33 gpm at whatever height you are pumping to. So say the surface of the water (at the low water level) in the fish tank is 2.5 feet below the highest point you pump to then you want to find a pump that will deliver at least 3.33 gpm at 2.5 feet and in general it is better to have more flow rather than less. You can often eek more flow out of smaller pumps if you upsize plumbing and minimize the length and number of fittings but that will usually only reduce the friction loss, it won't make the pump lift more water higher.
That solar pump might manage 2 gallons per minute but only at 0 head. It will NOT pump 2 gpm if you are expecting it to lift the water up to a grow bed draining back into the fish tank. Now perhaps if you were to run 3 or 4 of those pumps you might manage it but at that point it might be easier to get a single regular pump that can do it for under 40 watts and probably under $50 for the pump.
I have followed TCLynx advice and always installed larger pumps then I needed. This proved to be cost effective in the long run as we all seem to catch the AP bug and upgrade systems or add grow beds. Another great thing to look at is energy usage. Sometimes the larger pumps I bought used less energy saving me money and allowing me to add solar power easier and cheaper in the future
I do have an issue with electricity in the location where I plan to put my system, so that is why I was opting for a solar solution. However, after receiving all of the wonderful advice, I guess I will have to consider going with an AC pump instead of a DC one. Will have to consult an electrician and factor in that cost. Whew!
Does anyone use a 12 volt marine submersible bilge pump for their system? They have a 1500 GPH for about $90. Any thoughts on this 12volt DC 4.8 amp bilge pump on a battery with solar charger?
Bob, the bigger pump might almost provide the flow you need at 0 head under perfect sun conditions and perfect battery conditions. However, you are not pumping at 0 head so that bigger pump may or may not prove sufficient. If you try it, make sure to keep your fish load very minimal.
Bob look at using an inverter wired to solar panel and use ac pump pluged into inverter with 12volt battery used to store solar electricity for back up, the bilge pump is not made to run 24/7 it will run hot and burn out
I think I am a Daddy. Today I spoted 8 to 12 tiny, like 1/8th to 3/16th inch, baby fish in my big tank, near the surface. One distinguishing feature was two pin point yellow / green eyes.
Thanks for posting replies everyone. When I went back to check on things yesterday I found some tiny tilapia swimming around. I didn't want to lose track of my breeding female so I moved all of the babies to a floating tank. Perhaps I jumped the gun, but everyone seems happy today.
Today I did not see any of my little new fish. Now my tank is 3 ft deep, so they may be hiding, But I am concerned something happened to them. I refilled my 40 gallon aquarium and if I manage to locate them I plan to move them to the aquarium. Has anyone experienced survial problem with the new born?
OK, question... is there any major advantage in seperating your female and male "breeders" from the rest of your fish over just letting breeding occur naturaly in your main fish tank?
Anyway, my understanding is.. tilapia will eat anything, even if they are not hungry.
Separation is to insure you keep your little ones swimming.
My plan is..
After the eggs are fertilized and the female picks up the eggs, the other fish in the aquarium will be removed to another aquarium, less stress on the mother and the frys as they start swimming about.
I do have a tank, not an aquarium, in my greenhouse with a small mix of male and females. this is a test tank, I will compare it to what I have in my store room in the house (see below). This is all new to me, but I am trying to learn from the best. I am setup to video tape the process.
For the past two days I haven't seen any trace of my new born fish. I was lead to believe tilapia would not eat the fry. Now I am begining to have my doubts. But certainly these fish sucessfully reproduce in the wild. So the bigger question becomes, what is the survival rate for the fry? if they are left to their own devices vs seperating them.
Dave & Yvonne Story
Jon,
I love seeing how everyone shares experiences.
Thanks
Dave
Feb 21, 2012
Dave & Yvonne Story
aaron,
next time, I would suggest you not move the female with eggs. Move all the other fish. this will have less stress on the female with eggs.. anyone agree or disagree???
Feb 21, 2012
Bob Vento
Ya all are awesome and thanks for the info. My IBC will actuall be cut more 1/3 2/3 and not in half. I will make sure I have at least 12" growing bed is that enough. I am also planning on a continuous flood and drain method. I found a local aquaponic supplier near me, whoo hoo, where I can get the clay ball medium but it is a little expensive.
Feb 21, 2012
aaron gallagher
I agree, unfortunately she had eggs in my 300 gal tank with 20 other adult tilapia. I only had one other 50 gal tank hooked up to the system. I couldn't put 19 half pounders in there, (not without hooking up the stereo!).
Any idea how long she will hold onto the little ones?
Feb 21, 2012
Bob Vento
From what I am reading ... I am assuming that the adults in the tank will eat the young fry. So you are suggesting moving the adults away from the female with eggs. Is there a way to provide an area within the same tank for this so as not to move any fish out of the tank? Just asking?
Also to answer back to some comments and suggestions... I am in Miami so winterizing I don't think is an issue. I also found a place within an hours drive where I can get adults and fingerling. What is the best way to transport them?
Feb 21, 2012
Sheri Schmeckpeper
I'd amend Jon's comment about the love connection. It's more of a temporary lust connection! LOL!
Aaron, she'll hold the eggs for a couple weeks before releasing them. Then she'll play mamma for a few days, gathering and releasing the fry to protect them. Soon enough they'll become independent, but she'll continue to protect them for close to a week. After that, she tolerates them and, I suspect, will snack on them occasionally. I recommend separating her from the fry a week after she starts releasing them; about when her protective behaviors settle down.
Bob, 12" is deep enough for just about any garden food. We have had great success with peppers, salad, spinach, strawberries, bok choy.... Choose what you like to eat & go for it!
Regarding moving fish, we've moved them in both directions and it's been equally awkward. It's definitely less stress on the female (and on us) to move the other fish, but you have to have a tank large enough to handle them, so it depends on how many you have and where they are in the first place.
The risk in moving the female is that quite often she'll spit out the eggs when being moved, so you have to have a container to move her in just in case she does. So far we've been fortunate that our mothers have picked most of their eggs up again after calming down, but there's a bit of attrition, and if she's stressed enough, she'll abandon the eggs.
That said, we have "nursery" tanks we put our brooding females in that give them peace and privacy. When we pull the mothers out, the tank becomes the fry tank, aka, "elementary school." When they're about 1", we move them outdoors to the "middle school" until they're fingerlings. The ones we keep go into the "high school" (fingerling tank) until they're large enough to join the more aggressive adult world.
We're still trying to figure out the best way to handle it; I think we'll be making some kind of net container that we can use to move the mothers out of our breeding tank with as little stress as possible, that will capture lost eggs, and that is easy to access for the mother so she can collect dropped eggs.
Feb 21, 2012
Tom Hickey
This may not sound like a good option for you, but I put the female with eggs in a 10 gallon tank. Only because I didn't know any better. However after she did not keep the babies in her mouth any longer (about 2 weeks) I moved her to the main tank. Fry are doing very well, growing every day. I have an 80 gallon tank with 6 tilapia 6-8" and a 60 gallon tank with 10 3-6". Both have grow beds above them. Hope to keep a nice cycle going and fill my freezer with fresh fish. The 10 gallon tank is working for now but think I may go to a 20 gallon.
Feb 21, 2012
Jon Parr
Aaron, eggs hatch about a week after being layed, and fry are not allowed back into mama's mouth for about another week or two, if she is isolated in her own tank. If she's by herself, fry are allowed out more often and grow quicker, shortening that window.
Bob, adult tilapia will eat anything that's easy, including fry. If they are well fed, and there are plenty if hides, then many of the fry will survive if kept with the adults. Also, fry tend to collect near the surface once free of the brooding mother, and can be skimmed with a net without handling mothers at all. You can also make a floating basket from a PVC frame and say 1/2" plastic mesh and fake plants or hula skirts draped below it. The young fry will seek shelter at the surface above the fake grass, and you can skim the fry periodically with a net.
I transport mine with a kitchen waste bag lining a 5 gallon bucket, filled half full of water, and the the bag drawstring cinched to avoid spillage. If more than an hour, add an airstone and air pump, easily powered with a 12 v inverter. I have kept hundreds of fry and adults alive this way for up to a week while traveling.
Feb 21, 2012
Jon Parr
Feb 21, 2012
Dave & Yvonne Story
aaron,
Sometimes, we need to do the second best way.
Cool
and kudos on the eggs
Feb 21, 2012
Dave & Yvonne Story
If my red crays do not multiply, I will go to red claw and if the people in Florida will ship to me.
Feb 21, 2012
Jon Parr
I personally think it is least disruptive to net the mother and bring her to isolation, using two nets, one in each hand, and move very slowly, the slower the better. Once out if the water, move her very quickly to prepared tank, and leave her alone, don't even look at here, just close the door and go grab a cocktail. Most if the time, especially if you're at day 7, she won't spit a single egg. After a mother has made this trip a few times, she never spits eggs (in my experience).
Feb 21, 2012
Dave & Yvonne Story
cool
how about escaping out of the tank.
I have 5 crays in my 300 gal tank with about 25 adult male tilapias. I have 1.5 and 2" PVC for my crays to hide in. I have not seen them since I put them in there, about 2 mos ago.
I can see the 2 crays in my 140 gal aquarium.. I hope the crays will not bother the tilapia mother if she ever lays eggs. What do you think?
Feb 21, 2012
Jon Parr
Tilapia and crays both will escape a tank if allowed to, redclaws are quite prone to 'walkabout'. Screening all tanks is a good idea, keeps predators out as well.
Feb 21, 2012
TCLynx
Bob, I fear you may find you need more of a pump than a little solar fountain pump. You want to make sure to move at least the volume of your fish tank once each hour.
I've never seen a little solar fountain pump that would more anywhere near 200 gallons an hour, let alone do it while lifting the water more than 18 inches.
Feb 21, 2012
David Owens
I've been reading this forum and separated 6 fish from my 175 gal tank to a 50 gal tank. I attempted to sex them but was unsure which were which, possibly because they were fairly small around 5" each. I set the heater to 85 degrees and waited 2 weeks reading this thread and watching them change colors and establish a pecking order. The largest fish swept the gravel clean in front of a clay flower pot and 2 days later 1 of my fish had eggs in her mouth. I caught her and moved her to a clean 10 gal tank with only a heater and an air stone. She dropped her eggs during the transfer but scooped 98% of them back up a few hours later. 2 Days later I had another female with eggs in her mouth and no more tanks so I cut 1 of my foam rafts for veggies into a barrier and split the 10 gal tank in 1/2. Two days later I noticed both females on 1 side of the barrier. Apparently, the more aggressive smaller female wormed her way under the 1" gap at the bottom and was picking on the larger female (the one added to the tank 2nd) The 1st fish was attacking the 2nd fish and made the larger female drop all of her eggs! She did all of this with a mouth full of eggs! So not having another tank I removed the no longer pregnant female and the extra eggs disappeared? Six days later, The small female had about 100 babies. This has been a great experience and I wanted to thank everyone for all of the knowledge. The female that lost her eggs was placed back in the 50gal tank with the rest and now has another large mouthful of eggs. Looks like I am going to have quite a few fish soon
Feb 21, 2012
Sheri Schmeckpeper
How fun, David! From what I understand, females are totally arbitrary in their behavior when brooding. Some will do as yours did & fight others. We had one once who did the opposite--she picked up and carried another female's eggs. We've also had two brooders carry together and protect their fry together. You just never know.
Your territorial female may have picked up the dropped eggs & nurtured them.100 seems like a lot for a 5" fish in her first brooding, but it's hard saying. She may just as easily have eaten them. (They'll eat any eggs that don't develop), although other than bad eggs that are already in the mouth, they don't eat while brooding.
I'm glad you're having so much success!
Feb 21, 2012
Jon Parr
Feb 21, 2012
Dave & Yvonne Story
David O.
Thank you for sharing.
Great story.. We are stuck making decisions. Right or wrong, hopefully we learn.
Feb 22, 2012
Dave & Yvonne Story
all great stories.
Feb 22, 2012
Bob Vento
Here is a link to the solar fountain pump I am planning on using in my system TCLynx . Check it out and let me know what you think.
http://www.esolarlighting.com/5-Watt-Solar-Fountain-Pond-Water-Pump...
Feb 22, 2012
David Owens
Thanks Jon. I was kinda panicing because it was such a small space and they were so aggressive I didn't want them both to lose the chance at motherhood. Instead it looks like there was some assault then kidnapping going on. It has been a great experience and the babies are so much fun to watch. They get so big so fast and are jetting around the tank. I went and got another 29gal tank for the next batch
Feb 22, 2012
TCLynx
Sorry to tell you Bob but I seriously doubt that pump will be enough all on it's own.
When they call it a 500 lph pump that amount of flow is if the water is not being lifted at all. At it's max lift of 1.4 meters, it won't be moving more than a dribble of water if that.
But then you area talking about a fish tank that is an IBC? so you should be moving more like 1000 lph to begin with and you will need to lift the water a little bit so even a 1000 lph pump isn't going to cut it. You need a pump that can provide about 1000 lph of flow at probably 2-3 foot of head.
Feb 22, 2012
Bob Vento
So even at a 24/7 flow this is will not work? That is a shame ...guess I will have to rethink this. I really wanted to be off the electric grid for this project.
Feb 22, 2012
Jon Parr
Feb 22, 2012
Bob Vento
Cost is also an issue with a solar system. The linked one was very reasonable. I read someplace that 2 gallons per minute was a good flow rate, is that not correct? That would be 120 gallons per hour and that pump has a flow rate of 132.09 gallons per hour. This is my confusion do you think this model would work ...
http://www.esolarlighting.com/8W-Solar-Powered-Water-Pump-With-Batt...
Feb 22, 2012
Dave & Yvonne Story
Rated flow rate is based on no lift and no friction.
Most pumps will give you a flow rate at heights about the pump, too.
Feb 22, 2012
Sheri Schmeckpeper
Bob, you have to look at two numbers on the pumps. The gph is max flowthrough, but it doesn't account for gravity. The lift is the max it will raise water...any water...not the total gallons promised. So the higher the lift, the lower the gallons it can pump.
We're currently running a 258 gph with a 6'4" lift, and it's doing the job in a tote 1' shorter than yours, lifting about 4'. It's doing the job, though in the ideal world we'd have it a little larger. You'll be lifting at least a foot higher than this. So while you might get away with one the size of ours, your circulation won't be optimal. The added investment will be worth the gain.
Feb 22, 2012
TCLynx
Bob, the 2 gpm is the recommendation for minimum flow through a raft bed, not necessarily the minimum flow for the filtration of water for a 200 + gallon fish tank with a media bed.
To pump your 200 gallons of fish tank each hour, you need at least 3.33 gpm at whatever height you are pumping to. So say the surface of the water (at the low water level) in the fish tank is 2.5 feet below the highest point you pump to then you want to find a pump that will deliver at least 3.33 gpm at 2.5 feet and in general it is better to have more flow rather than less. You can often eek more flow out of smaller pumps if you upsize plumbing and minimize the length and number of fittings but that will usually only reduce the friction loss, it won't make the pump lift more water higher.
That solar pump might manage 2 gallons per minute but only at 0 head. It will NOT pump 2 gpm if you are expecting it to lift the water up to a grow bed draining back into the fish tank. Now perhaps if you were to run 3 or 4 of those pumps you might manage it but at that point it might be easier to get a single regular pump that can do it for under 40 watts and probably under $50 for the pump.
Feb 22, 2012
David Owens
I have followed TCLynx advice and always installed larger pumps then I needed. This proved to be cost effective in the long run as we all seem to catch the AP bug and upgrade systems or add grow beds. Another great thing to look at is energy usage. Sometimes the larger pumps I bought used less energy saving me money and allowing me to add solar power easier and cheaper in the future
Feb 22, 2012
Bob Vento
Awesome info everyone and I really appreciate it.
I do have an issue with electricity in the location where I plan to put my system, so that is why I was opting for a solar solution. However, after receiving all of the wonderful advice, I guess I will have to consider going with an AC pump instead of a DC one. Will have to consult an electrician and factor in that cost. Whew!
I thought that the other pump model I linked to http://www.esolarlighting.com/8W-Solar-Powered-Water-Pump-With-Batt... ,
might do the trick since it had a higher flow rate and better lift capacity but no one commented on it at all?
Feb 22, 2012
Bob Vento
Does anyone use a 12 volt marine submersible bilge pump for their system? They have a 1500 GPH for about $90. Any thoughts on this 12volt DC 4.8 amp bilge pump on a battery with solar charger?
Feb 22, 2012
TCLynx
Well there is an Off grid group that might be able to help you figure more out about trying to do solar aquaponics.
Off Grid Group
Bob, the bigger pump might almost provide the flow you need at 0 head under perfect sun conditions and perfect battery conditions. However, you are not pumping at 0 head so that bigger pump may or may not prove sufficient. If you try it, make sure to keep your fish load very minimal.
Feb 22, 2012
john tramell
Bob look at using an inverter wired to solar panel and use ac pump pluged into inverter with 12volt battery used to store solar electricity for back up, the bilge pump is not made to run 24/7 it will run hot and burn out
Feb 22, 2012
Dave Lindstedt
I think I am a Daddy. Today I spoted 8 to 12 tiny, like 1/8th to 3/16th inch, baby fish in my big tank, near the surface. One distinguishing feature was two pin point yellow / green eyes.
Feb 22, 2012
Sheri Schmeckpeper
Congratulations, Dave!
Feb 22, 2012
aaron gallagher
Thanks for posting replies everyone. When I went back to check on things yesterday I found some tiny tilapia swimming around. I didn't want to lose track of my breeding female so I moved all of the babies to a floating tank. Perhaps I jumped the gun, but everyone seems happy today.
Feb 22, 2012
Dave Lindstedt
Well I was very happy to see the little guys, as I lost over 100 fish back in November.
Feb 22, 2012
David Owens
Congratulations to you both! This is awesome because now I get to design a whole new bigger system :)
Feb 22, 2012
Dave & Yvonne Story
David O,
Maybe we need a special Blog about equipment successes and failures.
We have all had them.
Feb 22, 2012
Bob Vento
CONGRATS on your new additions. :-)
Feb 23, 2012
Bob Vento
Does anyone know anything about these pumps?
http://www.pondparts.com/subcat666.html
Any thoughts, comments or concerns?
Regards,
Bob
Feb 23, 2012
Lonnie Kirkman
I still use bucket heaters to heat my totes when it gets cold down here
Feb 23, 2012
Lonnie Kirkman
I have over 1000 fry and fingerlings w/ 1 breeding group one male 3 female my large female I get 200 to 300 fry each time I am runnig out of room Im going to have to seperate my breeders soon
I found 55 gal tank isnt I deal for 1 male and 5 females as some suggest when they get big I have a 120 gal that works well 4 55gal for more breeders when I get them already have 4 very nice males have 6 20ga for female to release there fry and 4 65gal w fingerlings and 8 375gal totes w fish way to many lol when they start breeding wow thats all they dol
Feb 23, 2012
TCLynx
Yea when they get going it's hard to slow them down. However, we found that the pumpkin seed size fry make really great chicken snacks.
Feb 23, 2012
Dave Lindstedt
Today I did not see any of my little new fish. Now my tank is 3 ft deep, so they may be hiding, But I am concerned something happened to them. I refilled my 40 gallon aquarium and if I manage to locate them I plan to move them to the aquarium. Has anyone experienced survial problem with the new born?
Feb 25, 2012
Dave Lindstedt
OK, question... is there any major advantage in seperating your female and male "breeders" from the rest of your fish over just letting breeding occur naturaly in your main fish tank?
Feb 26, 2012
Dave & Yvonne Story
You should have several replies to this question.
Anyway, my understanding is.. tilapia will eat anything, even if they are not hungry.
Separation is to insure you keep your little ones swimming.
My plan is..
After the eggs are fertilized and the female picks up the eggs, the other fish in the aquarium will be removed to another aquarium, less stress on the mother and the frys as they start swimming about.
Feb 26, 2012
Dave & Yvonne Story
natural selection.
I do have a tank, not an aquarium, in my greenhouse with a small mix of male and females. this is a test tank, I will compare it to what I have in my store room in the house (see below). This is all new to me, but I am trying to learn from the best. I am setup to video tape the process.
Feb 26, 2012
Dave Lindstedt
For the past two days I haven't seen any trace of my new born fish. I was lead to believe tilapia would not eat the fry. Now I am begining to have my doubts. But certainly these fish sucessfully reproduce in the wild. So the bigger question becomes, what is the survival rate for the fry? if they are left to their own devices vs seperating them.
Feb 26, 2012