Worms and fruit flies - Aquaponic Gardening2024-03-29T05:28:27Zhttps://aquaponicgardening.ning.com/forum/topics/worms-and-fruit-flies?commentId=4778851%3AComment%3A456048&feed=yes&xn_auth=noThanks for all the info. Any…tag:aquaponicgardening.ning.com,2013-03-31:4778851:Comment:4563802013-03-31T06:08:36.166ZBob Terrellhttps://aquaponicgardening.ning.com/profile/BobTerrell
<p>Thanks for all the info. Any pictures you want to put up would be great, you can do it here if youm want, just go to photos, click on add, then chose you file and they will post.<br></br> <br></br> <cite>Converse said:</cite></p>
<blockquote cite="http://community.theaquaponicsource.com/forum/topics/worms-and-fruit-flies?id=4778851%3ATopic%3A456043&page=2#4778851Comment456414"><div><div class="xg_user_generated"><p> How to get rid of fruit flies or gnats...</p>
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<p> Take a cup or deep…</p>
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<p>Thanks for all the info. Any pictures you want to put up would be great, you can do it here if youm want, just go to photos, click on add, then chose you file and they will post.<br/> <br/> <cite>Converse said:</cite></p>
<blockquote cite="http://community.theaquaponicsource.com/forum/topics/worms-and-fruit-flies?id=4778851%3ATopic%3A456043&page=2#4778851Comment456414"><div><div class="xg_user_generated"><p> How to get rid of fruit flies or gnats...</p>
<p> </p>
<p> Take a cup or deep lid for a jar and put some wine or vinegar in it. Set it on the top of the matter in your bin. The fruit flies will dive in and die. Throw out the liquid and put some more in....This really works...except if you have a fly population established within the matter of your bin...Another word of advice: NEVER stir the contents of your bin. Some people seem think this is necessary or beneficial. All that does is cause the redworms to go into panic mode and slow down or stop their eating and reproducing for a few days (and sometimes up to a few weeks), and it also mixes in any fly eggs deeper into the bin, if you have this problem going on.</p>
<p> If you actually have gnats/fruit flies IN the bedding and hatching from within the matter in your bin, then I suggest you start the whole system over.</p>
<p> What do I reccommed? A very simple system. It works. It is not glamorous, but it is very effective. Get a rubber maid or sterilite tote. The 10 gallon size runs about $4.50 or so at WalMart. If your family is vegetarian start with a larger size bin. Melt or drill holes in the bin on the sides, bottom and lid, that are about the size of a pencil eraser. The redworms will stay put as long as they have adequate food, moisture and air circulation. Add bedding. When starting out I recommed putting a layer of either peat moss or coco coir on the bottom, which is wetted and wrung out to the point that if you squeeze it, drips of water escape between your fingers. Then add the rest of your bedding which is also wetted down to the same point as the peat or coir. This can be straw, shredded paper (avoid magazine type paper), dead leaves (avoid oak or others that have tannin in them). You'll want about 6 inches of bedding in the bin as a minimum. This will allow enough depth for you to completely surround the food matter on all sides with the shredded paper. The peat or coir layer really is not necessary, but it helps people who are beginning their vermicomposting adventure to maintain the proper moisture level in their bin, because it holds water well. The bin may drain a bit. Put a lid or other tray under the bin to catch the drainage, which is properly called leachate (which by the way is NOT worm casting tea, and should never be used on plants or media in connection with an AP system).</p>
<p> When using bins I do not recommend stacking bins inside each other. Some people do this so they can catch any drainage, or to try to create a flow-through system for their redworms. What this really does is adversely affect the air circulation, and creates anaerobic pockets in the redworm bin. It also encourages the moisture level to stay very high due to lack of air circulation.. Only use one bin.</p>
<p> </p>
<p> OF course, we have huge outdoor redworm beds. Our redworms live outdoors year-round. We do not baby them. They live outdoors in over 100 degree heat in the summer (they are shaded) and under a blanket of several feet of snow in the winter (I am in the Cascade Mtns.). Besides our redworm beds, we also use the same vermicomposting bin system we recommend, and have them both inside and outside year round too. We keep a bin behind the recliner in our livingroom. No one ever knows it is there, unless we tell them. One also sits just outside our chicken coup all year. We feed the redworms to our farm fowl and our fish. Let me know if you still would like a picture sent. I can do it via e-mail...I think.</p>
<p> </p>
<p>I hope this is somewhat helpful Let me know if you have any further questions. Glad to be of help.</p>
<p> </p>
<p>- Converse</p>
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</blockquote> How to get rid of fruit fli…tag:aquaponicgardening.ning.com,2013-03-31:4778851:Comment:4564142013-03-31T04:46:55.468ZConversehttps://aquaponicgardening.ning.com/profile/Converse
<p> How to get rid of fruit flies or gnats...</p>
<p> </p>
<p> Take a cup or deep lid for a jar and put some wine or vinegar in it. Set it on the top of the matter in your bin. The fruit flies will dive in and die. Throw out the liquid and put some more in....This really works...except if you have a fly population established within the matter of your bin...Another word of advice: NEVER stir the contents of your bin. Some people seem think this is necessary or beneficial. All that does is…</p>
<p> How to get rid of fruit flies or gnats...</p>
<p> </p>
<p> Take a cup or deep lid for a jar and put some wine or vinegar in it. Set it on the top of the matter in your bin. The fruit flies will dive in and die. Throw out the liquid and put some more in....This really works...except if you have a fly population established within the matter of your bin...Another word of advice: NEVER stir the contents of your bin. Some people seem think this is necessary or beneficial. All that does is cause the redworms to go into panic mode and slow down or stop their eating and reproducing for a few days (and sometimes up to a few weeks), and it also mixes in any fly eggs deeper into the bin, if you have this problem going on.</p>
<p> If you actually have gnats/fruit flies IN the bedding and hatching from within the matter in your bin, then I suggest you start the whole system over.</p>
<p> What do I reccommed? A very simple system. It works. It is not glamorous, but it is very effective. Get a rubber maid or sterilite tote. The 10 gallon size runs about $4.50 or so at WalMart. If your family is vegetarian start with a larger size bin. Melt or drill holes in the bin on the sides, bottom and lid, that are about the size of a pencil eraser. The redworms will stay put as long as they have adequate food, moisture and air circulation. Add bedding. When starting out I recommed putting a layer of either peat moss or coco coir on the bottom, which is wetted and wrung out to the point that if you squeeze it, drips of water escape between your fingers. Then add the rest of your bedding which is also wetted down to the same point as the peat or coir. This can be straw, shredded paper (avoid magazine type paper), dead leaves (avoid oak or others that have tannin in them). You'll want about 6 inches of bedding in the bin as a minimum. This will allow enough depth for you to completely surround the food matter on all sides with the shredded paper. The peat or coir layer really is not necessary, but it helps people who are beginning their vermicomposting adventure to maintain the proper moisture level in their bin, because it holds water well. The bin may drain a bit. Put a lid or other tray under the bin to catch the drainage, which is properly called leachate (which by the way is NOT worm casting tea, and should never be used on plants or media in connection with an AP system).</p>
<p> When using bins I do not recommend stacking bins inside each other. Some people do this so they can catch any drainage, or to try to create a flow-through system for their redworms. What this really does is adversely affect the air circulation, and creates anaerobic pockets in the redworm bin. It also encourages the moisture level to stay very high due to lack of air circulation.. Only use one bin.</p>
<p> </p>
<p> OF course, we have huge outdoor redworm beds. Our redworms live outdoors year-round. We do not baby them. They live outdoors in over 100 degree heat in the summer (they are shaded) and under a blanket of several feet of snow in the winter (I am in the Cascade Mtns.). Besides our redworm beds, we also use the same vermicomposting bin system we recommend, and have them both inside and outside year round too. We keep a bin behind the recliner in our livingroom. No one ever knows it is there, unless we tell them. One also sits just outside our chicken coup all year. We feed the redworms to our farm fowl and our fish. Let me know if you still would like a picture sent. I can do it via e-mail...I think.</p>
<p> </p>
<p>I hope this is somewhat helpful Let me know if you have any further questions. Glad to be of help.</p>
<p> </p>
<p>- Converse</p> Converse, would you mind post…tag:aquaponicgardening.ning.com,2013-03-31:4778851:Comment:4562842013-03-31T03:45:33.516ZBob Terrellhttps://aquaponicgardening.ning.com/profile/BobTerrell
<p>Converse, would you mind posting as picture of your bins? I am using a stacking tray system (Worm Farm, maybe should have been called the fly farm). I will change in a heart beat for a begtter system.<br></br> <br></br> <cite>Converse said:</cite></p>
<blockquote cite="http://community.theaquaponicsource.com/forum/topics/worms-and-fruit-flies?commentId=4778851%3AComment%3A456084&xg_source=msg_com_forum#4778851Comment456161"><div><div class="xg_user_generated"><p> I run a commercial scale…</p>
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<p>Converse, would you mind posting as picture of your bins? I am using a stacking tray system (Worm Farm, maybe should have been called the fly farm). I will change in a heart beat for a begtter system.<br/> <br/> <cite>Converse said:</cite></p>
<blockquote cite="http://community.theaquaponicsource.com/forum/topics/worms-and-fruit-flies?commentId=4778851%3AComment%3A456084&xg_source=msg_com_forum#4778851Comment456161"><div><div class="xg_user_generated"><p> I run a commercial scale redworm farm. We give workshops and teach sessions in schools, for gov't agencies and groups (so far without pay). One of the frequent questions we get is how to deal with fruit flies that many seem to associate with vermicomposting, and thus, get discouraged.</p>
<p> Sometimes the fruit fly problem is associated with the type of vermicomposting set-up being used. The stacking trays seem to be the most susceptible to this problem. This is not a challenge only limited to that type of set-up though. I can tell you how to avoid the problem and how to get rid of it, and be able to live with vermicomposting indoors, or in a greenhouse without having to deal with the gnats and/or flies. </p>
<p> It helps to know that fruit flies and gnats are attracted to the gasses that are given off by decomposing fruits and veggies. It also helps to know that entomologists have discovered that these creatures will not penetrate a depth/thickness of 2 inches of bedding to get at a food source. This is why the stacking trays seem to be by and large the biggest vermicomposting gnat/fruit fly problem. When adding any food source you need to make a hole in the bedding and plop in the food and bury the food under bedding . this means the food needs to be surrounded on all sides by a thickness of 2 inches of bedding. In the stacking tray systems, there is not a way to keep 2 inches of bedding surrounding all food sources. And if you are successful at this, you must make sure that the bedding (usually shredded paper) does not get consumed, making it necessary to add more. This is why I recommend using a bin. It is easier to maintain moisture levels the redworms need and it is also conducive to keeping food sources properly buried, so fruitflies invasions can be avoided.</p>
<p> Also NEVER top feed. Covering the top of your bin with a damp rag or a piece of cardboard is not adequate, when trying to count that as burying the food. Always make a hole, and add the food and cover it up with bedding.</p>
<p> Never add food that has sat on a counter or anywhere where a fruit fly or gnat has had the chance to land on it. Poof! Eggs are laid! Then you add the food matter to your bin.. The eggs hatch, and the fruit fly or gnat larva think that have hatched in heaven! Always keep food covered before adding it to your vermicomposting set-up. Some people even freeze the food before adding it. This adds a measure of safety. </p>
<p> I will add more later on how to get rid of them.</p>
<p> </p>
<p>Never fear. All is not lost. Gotta go do some more farming for now. More later....</p>
<p> - Converse</p>
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</blockquote> Thanks to everyone for the re…tag:aquaponicgardening.ning.com,2013-03-31:4778851:Comment:4562802013-03-31T02:45:47.636ZBob Terrellhttps://aquaponicgardening.ning.com/profile/BobTerrell
<p>Thanks to everyone for the replies. I know where to start to solve the problem,</p>
<p>Thanks to everyone for the replies. I know where to start to solve the problem,</p> I like the idea of threateni…tag:aquaponicgardening.ning.com,2013-03-31:4778851:Comment:4562792013-03-31T02:44:20.535ZBob Terrellhttps://aquaponicgardening.ning.com/profile/BobTerrell
<p>I like the idea of<br></br> threatening murderous revenge upon them helps scare them off, funny I tried the vacuume trick.<br></br> <cite>Alex Veidel said:</cite></p>
<blockquote cite="http://community.theaquaponicsource.com/forum/topics/worms-and-fruit-flies#4778851Comment456158"><div><div class="xg_user_generated"><p>Lol, I can tell you EXACTLY how it pans out. Once the gnats are present in the the buried food, they continue to tunnel around like mites. I know flies don't like to burrow but they…</p>
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<p>I like the idea of<br/> threatening murderous revenge upon them helps scare them off, funny I tried the vacuume trick.<br/> <cite>Alex Veidel said:</cite></p>
<blockquote cite="http://community.theaquaponicsource.com/forum/topics/worms-and-fruit-flies#4778851Comment456158"><div><div class="xg_user_generated"><p>Lol, I can tell you EXACTLY how it pans out. Once the gnats are present in the the buried food, they continue to tunnel around like mites. I know flies don't like to burrow but they do seem to get around my bin<img src="http://www.bkserv.net/images/Smile.gif"/> Currently, I'm not doing anything. But if you stop putting fresh food in the bin for a while, they should leave. Then just bury your food more carefully. Other than that, there isn't much you can do outside of band-aid solutions. Some people use a vacuum to suck up the little buggers as they fly off the disturbed bedding. I find threatening murderous revenge upon them helps scare them off as well<img src="http://www.bkserv.net/images/Smile.gif"/> Burying food helps cut down numbers, but they usually find their way in regardless.<br/> <br/> <cite>Vlad Jovanovic said:</cite></p>
<blockquote cite="http://community.theaquaponicsource.com/forum/topics/worms-and-fruit-flies#4778851Comment456333"><div><div class="xg_user_generated"><p>If you bury whatever you are feeding the worms at least two inches under the bedding material...the fruit flies (and gnats) will not bother penetrating that depth to try and get at a food source and lay eggs. But if you have not done this from the beginning, and they've already been laying eggs in the worms food...I'm not sure how this strategy pans out since their eggs are already present...</p>
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</blockquote> Married to the most wonderful…tag:aquaponicgardening.ning.com,2013-03-31:4778851:Comment:4563572013-03-31T02:39:48.121ZBob Terrellhttps://aquaponicgardening.ning.com/profile/BobTerrell
<p>Married to the most wonderful woman for 18 years but sadly now I am a widower.<br></br> <br></br> <cite>Alex Veidel said:</cite></p>
<blockquote cite="http://community.theaquaponicsource.com/forum/topics/worms-and-fruit-flies#4778851Comment456265"><div><div class="xg_user_generated"><p>Bob are you married? I know from experience most females and bugs in the house do NOT get along together. Took a long time for it to stop driving my mom crazy<img src="http://www.bkserv.net/images/Smile.gif"></img> Now she lets me grow bsf larvae and redworms in…</p>
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<p>Married to the most wonderful woman for 18 years but sadly now I am a widower.<br/> <br/> <cite>Alex Veidel said:</cite></p>
<blockquote cite="http://community.theaquaponicsource.com/forum/topics/worms-and-fruit-flies#4778851Comment456265"><div><div class="xg_user_generated"><p>Bob are you married? I know from experience most females and bugs in the house do NOT get along together. Took a long time for it to stop driving my mom crazy<img src="http://www.bkserv.net/images/Smile.gif"/> Now she lets me grow bsf larvae and redworms in the garage, despite all the gnats. And she ok'd the idea of ordering 1,000 predator mites for my sytem. Best mom ever!</p>
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</blockquote> No but an used up bottle Jack…tag:aquaponicgardening.ning.com,2013-03-31:4778851:Comment:4561712013-03-31T02:33:38.650ZBob Terrellhttps://aquaponicgardening.ning.com/profile/BobTerrell
<p>No but an used up bottle Jack Danials works. NO I an not kiddiong. Rum worked pretty good also.<br/> <br/> <cite>Robert C. Wood said:</cite></p>
<blockquote cite="http://community.theaquaponicsource.com/forum/topics/worms-and-fruit-flies#4778851Comment456084"><div><div class="xg_user_generated"><p>have you tried using applecider in a glass covered with plastic rap with three tooth pick size holes to catch them and feed them to your fish?</p>
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<p>No but an used up bottle Jack Danials works. NO I an not kiddiong. Rum worked pretty good also.<br/> <br/> <cite>Robert C. Wood said:</cite></p>
<blockquote cite="http://community.theaquaponicsource.com/forum/topics/worms-and-fruit-flies#4778851Comment456084"><div><div class="xg_user_generated"><p>have you tried using applecider in a glass covered with plastic rap with three tooth pick size holes to catch them and feed them to your fish?</p>
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</blockquote> I run a commercial scale re…tag:aquaponicgardening.ning.com,2013-03-31:4778851:Comment:4561612013-03-31T00:14:42.064ZConversehttps://aquaponicgardening.ning.com/profile/Converse
<p> I run a commercial scale redworm farm. We give workshops and teach sessions in schools, for gov't agencies and groups (so far without pay). One of the frequent questions we get is how to deal with fruit flies that many seem to associate with vermicomposting, and thus, get discouraged.</p>
<p> Sometimes the fruit fly problem is associated with the type of vermicomposting set-up being used. The stacking trays seem to be the most susceptible to this problem. This is not a challenge only…</p>
<p> I run a commercial scale redworm farm. We give workshops and teach sessions in schools, for gov't agencies and groups (so far without pay). One of the frequent questions we get is how to deal with fruit flies that many seem to associate with vermicomposting, and thus, get discouraged.</p>
<p> Sometimes the fruit fly problem is associated with the type of vermicomposting set-up being used. The stacking trays seem to be the most susceptible to this problem. This is not a challenge only limited to that type of set-up though. I can tell you how to avoid the problem and how to get rid of it, and be able to live with vermicomposting indoors, or in a greenhouse without having to deal with the gnats and/or flies. </p>
<p> It helps to know that fruit flies and gnats are attracted to the gasses that are given off by decomposing fruits and veggies. It also helps to know that entomologists have discovered that these creatures will not penetrate a depth/thickness of 2 inches of bedding to get at a food source. This is why the stacking trays seem to be by and large the biggest vermicomposting gnat/fruit fly problem. When adding any food source you need to make a hole in the bedding and plop in the food and bury the food under bedding . this means the food needs to be surrounded on all sides by a thickness of 2 inches of bedding. In the stacking tray systems, there is not a way to keep 2 inches of bedding surrounding all food sources. And if you are successful at this, you must make sure that the bedding (usually shredded paper) does not get consumed, making it necessary to add more. This is why I recommend using a bin. It is easier to maintain moisture levels the redworms need and it is also conducive to keeping food sources properly buried, so fruitflies invasions can be avoided.</p>
<p> Also NEVER top feed. Covering the top of your bin with a damp rag or a piece of cardboard is not adequate, when trying to count that as burying the food. Always make a hole, and add the food and cover it up with bedding.</p>
<p> Never add food that has sat on a counter or anywhere where a fruit fly or gnat has had the chance to land on it. Poof! Eggs are laid! Then you add the food matter to your bin.. The eggs hatch, and the fruit fly or gnat larva think that have hatched in heaven! Always keep food covered before adding it to your vermicomposting set-up. Some people even freeze the food before adding it. This adds a measure of safety. </p>
<p> I will add more later on how to get rid of them.</p>
<p> </p>
<p>Never fear. All is not lost. Gotta go do some more farming for now. More later....</p>
<p> - Converse</p> Bob are you married? I know f…tag:aquaponicgardening.ning.com,2013-03-30:4778851:Comment:4562652013-03-30T23:52:00.118ZAlex Veidelhttps://aquaponicgardening.ning.com/profile/AlexVeidel
<p>Bob are you married? I know from experience most females and bugs in the house do NOT get along together. Took a long time for it to stop driving my mom crazy :) Now she lets me grow bsf larvae and redworms in the garage, despite all the gnats. And she ok'd the idea of ordering 1,000 predator mites for my sytem. Best mom ever!</p>
<p>Bob are you married? I know from experience most females and bugs in the house do NOT get along together. Took a long time for it to stop driving my mom crazy :) Now she lets me grow bsf larvae and redworms in the garage, despite all the gnats. And she ok'd the idea of ordering 1,000 predator mites for my sytem. Best mom ever!</p> Lol, I can tell you EXACTLY h…tag:aquaponicgardening.ning.com,2013-03-30:4778851:Comment:4561582013-03-30T23:47:05.427ZAlex Veidelhttps://aquaponicgardening.ning.com/profile/AlexVeidel
<p>Lol, I can tell you EXACTLY how it pans out. Once the gnats are present in the the buried food, they continue to tunnel around like mites. I know flies don't like to burrow but they do seem to get around my bin :) Currently, I'm not doing anything. But if you stop putting fresh food in the bin for a while, they should leave. Then just bury your food more carefully. Other than that, there isn't much you can do outside of band-aid solutions. Some people use a vacuum to suck up the little…</p>
<p>Lol, I can tell you EXACTLY how it pans out. Once the gnats are present in the the buried food, they continue to tunnel around like mites. I know flies don't like to burrow but they do seem to get around my bin :) Currently, I'm not doing anything. But if you stop putting fresh food in the bin for a while, they should leave. Then just bury your food more carefully. Other than that, there isn't much you can do outside of band-aid solutions. Some people use a vacuum to suck up the little buggers as they fly off the disturbed bedding. I find threatening murderous revenge upon them helps scare them off as well :) Burying food helps cut down numbers, but they usually find their way in regardless.<br/> <br/> <cite>Vlad Jovanovic said:</cite></p>
<blockquote cite="http://community.theaquaponicsource.com/forum/topics/worms-and-fruit-flies#4778851Comment456333"><div><div class="xg_user_generated"><p>If you bury whatever you are feeding the worms at least two inches under the bedding material...the fruit flies (and gnats) will not bother penetrating that depth to try and get at a food source and lay eggs. But if you have not done this from the beginning, and they've already been laying eggs in the worms food...I'm not sure how this strategy pans out since their eggs are already present...</p>
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