What type of disease is on my tomatoe plants? - Aquaponic Gardening2024-03-29T15:01:53Zhttps://aquaponicgardening.ning.com/forum/topics/what-type-of-disease-is-on-my?commentId=4778851%3AComment%3A130214&feed=yes&xn_auth=noI think you've got some overw…tag:aquaponicgardening.ning.com,2011-06-11:4778851:Comment:1302222011-06-11T14:10:43.405ZNate Storeyhttps://aquaponicgardening.ning.com/profile/NateStorey
I think you've got some overwatering with nutrient deficiency- try getting some magnesium on those plants.
I think you've got some overwatering with nutrient deficiency- try getting some magnesium on those plants. yea, probably not worth keepi…tag:aquaponicgardening.ning.com,2011-06-11:4778851:Comment:1302142011-06-11T13:05:46.026ZTCLynxhttps://aquaponicgardening.ning.com/profile/TCLynx
yea, probably not worth keeping if they are just dropping fruit. And yes they probably came with the disease and the cool wet spring only made things worse.
yea, probably not worth keeping if they are just dropping fruit. And yes they probably came with the disease and the cool wet spring only made things worse. Thanks Homefire,
I will def…tag:aquaponicgardening.ning.com,2011-06-11:4778851:Comment:1299672011-06-11T05:27:15.394ZShelia Hoythttps://aquaponicgardening.ning.com/profile/SheliaHoyt
<p><br></br> Thanks Homefire,</p>
<p> I will definitely look that up on Monday. This is my 80 hour week and I will only work 9 on Monday, so I will have a little spare time.</p>
<p>I just checked a few minutes ago and it appears that there are more black and brown spots around the leaves. This also applies: <span style="text-decoration: underline;"><strong>"interveinal chlorosis (yellowing between the veins),</strong></span><br></br><span style="text-decoration: underline;"><strong>and the sides of the…</strong></span></p>
<p><br/> Thanks Homefire,</p>
<p> I will definitely look that up on Monday. This is my 80 hour week and I will only work 9 on Monday, so I will have a little spare time.</p>
<p>I just checked a few minutes ago and it appears that there are more black and brown spots around the leaves. This also applies: <span style="text-decoration: underline;"><strong>"interveinal chlorosis (yellowing between the veins),</strong></span><br/><span style="text-decoration: underline;"><strong>and the sides of the leaves will curl upward. The</strong></span><br/><span style="text-decoration: underline;"><strong>leaves may look crinkled. The symptoms will be subtle</strong></span><br/><span style="text-decoration: underline;"><strong>at first, but yellowing will increase over time and</strong></span><br/><span style="text-decoration: underline;"><strong>become very noticeable".</strong></span></p>
<p><br/>The only thing that does not apply is these are not in a green house; however they came from a green house in Springfield. Who knows where the plants originated at. In fact the olnly ones that do not have disease are the voulunteer from last year's crop and a few rare seeds that I planted that are non- hybrid. So these could have been carrying the virus when I bought them. I guess I need to pull them up asap. Especially since the all the fruit is dropping as soon as it forms a small fruit.</p>
<p><cite>Homefire said:</cite></p>
<blockquote cite="http://aquaponicscommunity.com/forum/topics/what-type-of-disease-is-on-my?xg_source=activity#4778851Comment129643"><div><p>Hi Shelia,</p>
<p>Just from googling around, looks like it could be Tomato spotted wilt virus.</p>
<p>Let us know what treatment you come to.</p>
<p><a rel="nofollow" href="http://msucares.com/pubs/publications/p1861.pdf" target="_blank">http://msucares.com/pubs/publications/p1861.pdf</a></p>
<p>Tomato spotted wilt virus (TSWV) can be a widespread<br/>problem in greenhouse tomatoes. Like ToMV,<br/>diagnosis of TSWV in greenhouse tomatoes can be difficult.<br/>Symptoms can be many and varied. TSWV<br/>symptoms can be confused with those caused by other<br/>viral, fungal or bacterial pathogens, or nutritional disorders.<br/>One of the chief vectors of the virus, the<br/>Western flower thrips (several other thrips species are<br/>also known to transmit the virus), is widespread<br/>across the Midsouth. Scouting for and controlling<br/>thrips populations is important to prevent the spread<br/>of TSWV. Many weedy plants can harbor the virus, so<br/>keep a weed-free perimeter around the greenhouse.<br/>Test kits are available to check for the presence of<br/>TSWV in tomato. The immunostrip test kits are inexpensive,<br/>dependable, and easy to use. Contact your<br/>county Extension office to find out where to buy test<br/>kits.<br/>Key symptom (or at least suspect TSWV): Look for<br/>small, dark-brown leaf spots in the upper portion of<br/>the plant, which may be arranged in a "ringspot" pattern,<br/>dark streaking in petioles and stems, stunted<br/>growth terminals, and brown or black lesions on distorted<br/>fruit. Submit samples of suspicious plants to<br/>your Extension plant disease diagnostic lab. Remove<br/>suspect plants.<br/>Tomato Yellow Leaf Curl Virus (TYLCV) was first<br/>observed in Mississippi in greenhouse tomatoes in<br/>2001. This destructive virus disease is transmitted by<br/>whiteflies. Once infection occurs, the virus prevents<br/>further plant development. No flowers or fruit are produced<br/>from that point on resulting in a total crop loss.<br/>Key symptom: Symptoms begin showing up<br/>about 10-12 days after feeding of whiteflies that carry<br/>the virus. Leaves in the top of the plant will develop<br/>interveinal chlorosis (yellowing between the veins),<br/>and the sides of the leaves will curl upward. The<br/>leaves may look crinkled. The symptoms will be subtle<br/>at first, but yellowing will increase over time and<br/>become very noticeable. Scouting for and controlling<br/>whiteflies are important methods<br/>of preventing further<br/>spread of the virus.<br/>Commonly grown Mississippi<br/>greenhouse tomato varieties<br/>do not have resistance to this<br/>disease.</p>
<p> </p>
Biological Management<br/>Biological management is the most economic and<br/>effective method of handling several significant diseases.<br/>Biological disease management mainly involves<br/>using varieties with disease resistance. Compared to<br/>the 1970s when the commonly grown varieties did not<br/>have disease resistance, most modern greenhouse<br/>tomato varieties are resistant to one or more diseases<br/>that used to be limiting factors in production.<br/>Cultural Management<br/>Cultural management refers to practices connected to<br/>the production of the crop. This method creates conditions<br/>that do not favor disease development.<br/>Regulating greenhouse relative humidity is critical<br/>since moisture is the main factor influencing plant<br/>infection by the fungi responsible for gray mold, timber<br/>rot, and leaf mold. Relative humidity must be<br/>above 90 percent for spore germination and infection<br/>to occur. Most bacterial diseases also need high, relative<br/>humidity.<br/>Control of relative humidity is particularly important<br/>when greenhouses are tightly sealed to conserve<br/>energy. During warm fall and spring days, the air<br/>inside the greenhouse picks up moisture, since warm<br/>air holds more moisture than cool air. As the air cools<br/>in the evening, the moisture-holding capacity drops<br/>until the house reaches the dew point and moisture<br/>begins to collect on surfaces. Eliminate moisture condensation<br/>by three methods:</div>
</blockquote> This disease is in both my AP…tag:aquaponicgardening.ning.com,2011-06-11:4778851:Comment:1301162011-06-11T04:59:20.711ZShelia Hoythttps://aquaponicgardening.ning.com/profile/SheliaHoyt
This disease is in both my AP system and my dirt garden- We had a wet Spring in Missouri, however the plants are in a raised bed so the dirt garden drys fairly quickly. The AP system is flood and drain and has an auto siphon so it drains completely on a regular basis also. Thanks- <br></br>
<br></br>
<cite>Debra Colvin said:…</cite>
This disease is in both my AP system and my dirt garden- We had a wet Spring in Missouri, however the plants are in a raised bed so the dirt garden drys fairly quickly. The AP system is flood and drain and has an auto siphon so it drains completely on a regular basis also. Thanks- <br/>
<br/>
<cite>Debra Colvin said:</cite><br />
<blockquote cite="http://aquaponicscommunity.com/forum/topics/what-type-of-disease-is-on-my?commentId=4778851%3AComment%3A129643&xg_source=msg_com_forum#4778851Comment129937"><div>To me, it looks like overwatering, since it's at the tips. or atl east something that is affecting the newer root sprouts, um..how much water do those plants get?</div>
</blockquote> Provided the dissolved oxygen…tag:aquaponicgardening.ning.com,2011-06-11:4778851:Comment:1301052011-06-11T00:42:56.569ZTCLynxhttps://aquaponicgardening.ning.com/profile/TCLynx
Provided the dissolved oxygen levels are good, I've had tomato plants thrive in constantly flooded beds so I will doubt that it is too much water unless you tell me it's a constantly flooded bed that only gets intermittent or very slow water flow.
Provided the dissolved oxygen levels are good, I've had tomato plants thrive in constantly flooded beds so I will doubt that it is too much water unless you tell me it's a constantly flooded bed that only gets intermittent or very slow water flow. To me, it looks like overwate…tag:aquaponicgardening.ning.com,2011-06-10:4778851:Comment:1299372011-06-10T19:33:41.768ZDebra Colvinhttps://aquaponicgardening.ning.com/profile/DebraColvin
To me, it looks like overwatering, since it's at the tips. or atl east something that is affecting the newer root sprouts, um..how much water do those plants get?
To me, it looks like overwatering, since it's at the tips. or atl east something that is affecting the newer root sprouts, um..how much water do those plants get? Hi Shelia,
Just from googling…tag:aquaponicgardening.ning.com,2011-06-10:4778851:Comment:1296432011-06-10T16:48:37.327ZHomefirehttps://aquaponicgardening.ning.com/profile/Homefire
<p>Hi Shelia,</p>
<p>Just from googling around, looks like it could be Tomato spotted wilt virus.</p>
<p>Let us know what treatment you come to.</p>
<p><a href="http://msucares.com/pubs/publications/p1861.pdf" target="_blank">http://msucares.com/pubs/publications/p1861.pdf</a></p>
<p>Tomato spotted wilt virus (TSWV) can be a widespread<br></br>problem in greenhouse tomatoes. Like ToMV,<br></br>diagnosis of TSWV in greenhouse tomatoes can be difficult.<br></br>Symptoms can be many and varied.…</p>
<p>Hi Shelia,</p>
<p>Just from googling around, looks like it could be Tomato spotted wilt virus.</p>
<p>Let us know what treatment you come to.</p>
<p><a href="http://msucares.com/pubs/publications/p1861.pdf" target="_blank">http://msucares.com/pubs/publications/p1861.pdf</a></p>
<p>Tomato spotted wilt virus (TSWV) can be a widespread<br/>problem in greenhouse tomatoes. Like ToMV,<br/>diagnosis of TSWV in greenhouse tomatoes can be difficult.<br/>Symptoms can be many and varied. TSWV<br/>symptoms can be confused with those caused by other<br/>viral, fungal or bacterial pathogens, or nutritional disorders.<br/>One of the chief vectors of the virus, the<br/>Western flower thrips (several other thrips species are<br/>also known to transmit the virus), is widespread<br/>across the Midsouth. Scouting for and controlling<br/>thrips populations is important to prevent the spread<br/>of TSWV. Many weedy plants can harbor the virus, so<br/>keep a weed-free perimeter around the greenhouse.<br/>Test kits are available to check for the presence of<br/>TSWV in tomato. The immunostrip test kits are inexpensive,<br/>dependable, and easy to use. Contact your<br/>county Extension office to find out where to buy test<br/>kits.<br/>Key symptom (or at least suspect TSWV): Look for<br/>small, dark-brown leaf spots in the upper portion of<br/>the plant, which may be arranged in a "ringspot" pattern,<br/>dark streaking in petioles and stems, stunted<br/>growth terminals, and brown or black lesions on distorted<br/>fruit. Submit samples of suspicious plants to<br/>your Extension plant disease diagnostic lab. Remove<br/>suspect plants.<br/>Tomato Yellow Leaf Curl Virus (TYLCV) was first<br/>observed in Mississippi in greenhouse tomatoes in<br/>2001. This destructive virus disease is transmitted by<br/>whiteflies. Once infection occurs, the virus prevents<br/>further plant development. No flowers or fruit are produced<br/>from that point on resulting in a total crop loss.<br/>Key symptom: Symptoms begin showing up<br/>about 10-12 days after feeding of whiteflies that carry<br/>the virus. Leaves in the top of the plant will develop<br/>interveinal chlorosis (yellowing between the veins),<br/>and the sides of the leaves will curl upward. The<br/>leaves may look crinkled. The symptoms will be subtle<br/>at first, but yellowing will increase over time and<br/>become very noticeable. Scouting for and controlling<br/>whiteflies are important methods<br/>of preventing further<br/>spread of the virus.<br/>Commonly grown Mississippi<br/>greenhouse tomato varieties<br/>do not have resistance to this<br/>disease.</p>
<p> </p>
Biological Management<br/>Biological management is the most economic and<br/>effective method of handling several significant diseases.<br/>Biological disease management mainly involves<br/>using varieties with disease resistance. Compared to<br/>the 1970s when the commonly grown varieties did not<br/>have disease resistance, most modern greenhouse<br/>tomato varieties are resistant to one or more diseases<br/>that used to be limiting factors in production.<br/>Cultural Management<br/>Cultural management refers to practices connected to<br/>the production of the crop. This method creates conditions<br/>that do not favor disease development.<br/>Regulating greenhouse relative humidity is critical<br/>since moisture is the main factor influencing plant<br/>infection by the fungi responsible for gray mold, timber<br/>rot, and leaf mold. Relative humidity must be<br/>above 90 percent for spore germination and infection<br/>to occur. Most bacterial diseases also need high, relative<br/>humidity.<br/>Control of relative humidity is particularly important<br/>when greenhouses are tightly sealed to conserve<br/>energy. During warm fall and spring days, the air<br/>inside the greenhouse picks up moisture, since warm<br/>air holds more moisture than cool air. As the air cools<br/>in the evening, the moisture-holding capacity drops<br/>until the house reaches the dew point and moisture<br/>begins to collect on surfaces. Eliminate moisture condensation<br/>by three methods: