plant problem? - Aquaponic Gardening2024-03-29T05:43:01Zhttps://aquaponicgardening.ning.com/forum/topics/plant-problem?commentId=4778851%3AComment%3A309942&feed=yes&xn_auth=noSylvia,
If I have spider mite…tag:aquaponicgardening.ning.com,2012-04-10:4778851:Comment:3184762012-04-10T14:00:13.736ZShelah Schenkelhttps://aquaponicgardening.ning.com/profile/ShelahSchenkel
Sylvia,<br />
If I have spider mites, should I rip everything out and start over?<br />
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<cite>Sylvia Bernstein said:</cite><blockquote cite="http://aquaponicscommunity.com/forum/topics/plant-problem?commentId=4778851%3AComment%3A45923#4778851Comment45920"><div><div class="xg_user_generated"><p>Sorry for not jumping back in here earlier, Elaine. Busy day yesterday. A ceiling fan won't do it because that is mainly pushing the air down, which doesn't really affect insects because they tend to…</p>
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Sylvia,<br />
If I have spider mites, should I rip everything out and start over?<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br/>
<br/>
<cite>Sylvia Bernstein said:</cite><blockquote cite="http://aquaponicscommunity.com/forum/topics/plant-problem?commentId=4778851%3AComment%3A45923#4778851Comment45920"><div><div class="xg_user_generated"><p>Sorry for not jumping back in here earlier, Elaine. Busy day yesterday. A ceiling fan won't do it because that is mainly pushing the air down, which doesn't really affect insects because they tend to live under the leaves. What you are trying to do is emulate a constant breeze, which the insects find pretty annoying. Needs to be a horizontal breeze. I use a couple inexpensive oscilating fans from Target. Good air circulation will also help with mildew and fungus.</p>
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<p>I totally agree with AJ - if you are seeing spider webs you are screwed. I just ripped out every strawberry plant in my greenhouse a couple weeks ago because of GD spider mites. You have to go into pretty toxic territory to get rid of them once they are at that stage, and I'm not going there.</p>
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<p>I use insecticidal soap for spot treatment and neem every other friday in the trouble spots, and beneficial insects as I think about it. Generally works...except with spider mites <img src="http://www.bkserv.net/images/Tongue.gif"/> If you go to our website under <a target="_blank" href="http://theaquaponicsource.com/products.php?cat=21">Insect Control</a> you can see some products that I'd recommend...and use.</p>
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</blockquote> Potassium bicarbonate is also…tag:aquaponicgardening.ning.com,2012-03-23:4778851:Comment:3102152012-03-23T15:31:13.522ZTCLynxhttps://aquaponicgardening.ning.com/profile/TCLynx
<p>Potassium bicarbonate is also good to have on hand for aquaponics system buffering and potassium supplement so that would be a good choice against powdery mildew.</p>
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<p>With many sprays you should be careful that they are not going to affect the aquaponics (especially anything with any soaps or other spreader/stickers or oils can be detrimental to aquaponics so use with care to avoid getting it into the system water.)</p>
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<p>Potassium bicarbonate is also good to have on hand for aquaponics system buffering and potassium supplement so that would be a good choice against powdery mildew.</p>
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<p>With many sprays you should be careful that they are not going to affect the aquaponics (especially anything with any soaps or other spreader/stickers or oils can be detrimental to aquaponics so use with care to avoid getting it into the system water.)</p>
<p></p> Thanks for the reply, Ian. I…tag:aquaponicgardening.ning.com,2012-03-23:4778851:Comment:3099422012-03-23T14:56:50.725ZIan Hawkinshttps://aquaponicgardening.ning.com/profile/IanHawkins
<p>Thanks for the reply, Ian. I really want to put faith in predators, and it sounds like your experienced. So, mind if I ask a few questions? Good, thanks.</p>
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<p>Suppose I have a have 2k' GH, what is 2K? 2000 square meters?</p>
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<p>with various crops, and I have it under control with some sprays, DE, etc.; but if left unchecked I would have problems with spider mites, aphids, ants, and white fly and some caterpillars.</p>
<p> </p>
<p>How much of what kind of predators do you…</p>
<p>Thanks for the reply, Ian. I really want to put faith in predators, and it sounds like your experienced. So, mind if I ask a few questions? Good, thanks.</p>
<p> </p>
<p>Suppose I have a have 2k' GH, what is 2K? 2000 square meters?</p>
<p> </p>
<p>with various crops, and I have it under control with some sprays, DE, etc.; but if left unchecked I would have problems with spider mites, aphids, ants, and white fly and some caterpillars.</p>
<p> </p>
<p>How much of what kind of predators do you recommend? Approx cost?</p>
<p> </p>
<p><strong>Spider mites – Ambly Californius sachets when plants are large enough, these will do thrips too. Replace every 4 weeks. 1-2 sachets per m2. 2000 Phytoseilus to control any hot spots/outbreaks. 1 bottle per 500m2 max, or 100m2 for quick control. </strong></p>
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<p><strong>Aphids – ACE mix. This product contains the mummies of three different parasites: <em>Aphelinus abdominalis</em>, <em>Aphidius colemani</em> and <em>Aphidius ervi</em>, which will attack many different species of aphids. Mummies will produce 500 adults). Use at at first signs of Aphids, reintroduce every 4-8 weeks depending on pest pressure. 1 bottle per 500m2.</strong></p>
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<p><strong>Ants – not really a pest but they do farm aphid. Nematodes applied to the nest areas works well.</strong></p>
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<p><strong>Whitefly – Encarsia Formosa introduced when fist whitefly is seen, 1-2 cards per m2. Reintroduce every 4 weeks. </strong></p>
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<p><strong>Caterpillars – difficult to control but nematodes will work on contact. Small pack will treat up to 120m2. Spray foliage with water first, then nematodes. </strong></p>
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<p>How many re-stocks per year?</p>
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<p>See above</p>
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<p>How do HID lights affect them?</p>
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<p><strong>Most mite predators prefer longer day lengths, although temperature is more important. None like cold conditions. There is lots of info online about what conditions are best for each bio-control.</strong></p>
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<p>Strong oscillating fans?</p>
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<p><strong>No problem, as long as they are above the crop. You wouldn’t want strong fans blowing plants anyway.</strong></p>
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<p>Now, if they're are doing there job, everything's all good, and you get some powder mildew, can you spray any fungicide without nukings the predators? Worm tea?</p>
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<p><strong>Sprays are fine, as long as they don’t have any effect on insects. Worm or compost tea is a good. Chemical sprays for mildew may have some negative impacts on populations, particularly sulphur. Use a bio fungicide like bacillus subtilis (Bud Rot Stop, Serenade etc) or Potassium Bicarbonate- which is great for mildew control.</strong></p>
<p><br/><br/>hope this helps mate, for costings id find a supplier near you as i have no idea as to prices apart from here in the UK.</p> alright mate sorry i havent b…tag:aquaponicgardening.ning.com,2012-03-15:4778851:Comment:3067062012-03-15T13:27:30.055ZIan Hawkinshttps://aquaponicgardening.ning.com/profile/IanHawkins
<p>alright mate sorry i havent been on for a while been very busy with work. i dont have much experience with that sort of scale but i have given your problem to a friend of mine and he will get back to me with some reccomendations i will post next week when im near a computer again. sorry its been ages</p>
<p>alright mate sorry i havent been on for a while been very busy with work. i dont have much experience with that sort of scale but i have given your problem to a friend of mine and he will get back to me with some reccomendations i will post next week when im near a computer again. sorry its been ages</p> Ian? You still there? Hate to…tag:aquaponicgardening.ning.com,2012-02-16:4778851:Comment:2941052012-02-16T07:50:26.923ZJon Parrhttps://aquaponicgardening.ning.com/profile/JonParr
Ian? You still there? Hate to pester, but would love to get some answers about those predators. Thanks.
Ian? You still there? Hate to pester, but would love to get some answers about those predators. Thanks. The day before yesterday whil…tag:aquaponicgardening.ning.com,2012-01-30:4778851:Comment:2852512012-01-30T12:40:03.415ZVlad Jovanovichttps://aquaponicgardening.ning.com/profile/VladJovanovic
<p>The day before yesterday while spot checking some pepper leaves (I do this at least twice a weak) I spotted the dreaded things. It was only on one plant, and I only managed to see 5 or 6 of them. Needless to say I sprayed every plant with the oil mix, then with plain water today. And will keep this up for the next couple of weeks. I believe that I caught them early enough as this seems to be key. The earlier you catch them, the 'easier' you can kill them all, in my experience. Noticing you…</p>
<p>The day before yesterday while spot checking some pepper leaves (I do this at least twice a weak) I spotted the dreaded things. It was only on one plant, and I only managed to see 5 or 6 of them. Needless to say I sprayed every plant with the oil mix, then with plain water today. And will keep this up for the next couple of weeks. I believe that I caught them early enough as this seems to be key. The earlier you catch them, the 'easier' you can kill them all, in my experience. Noticing you have spider mites only when you notice the webbing is generally pretty bad/hopeless (or breaking out the big guns toxic time)...</p>
<p>These sprays and what not, are OK, if you only have a couple dozen plants, but I have no intention of hand spraying in a 2k+ sq.ft GH come this year, so I too am interested in any ones experiences with any sort of predators. Stocking, re-stocking prevention program. Combinations of predators, when/how/how many to release would all be very helpful information and any shared experience would be greatly appreciated...</p> Thanks for the reply, Ian. I…tag:aquaponicgardening.ning.com,2012-01-30:4778851:Comment:2852492012-01-30T11:29:21.202ZJon Parrhttps://aquaponicgardening.ning.com/profile/JonParr
Thanks for the reply, Ian. I really want to put faith in predators, and it sounds like your experienced. So, mind if I ask a few questions? Good, thanks. Suppose I have a have 2k' GH, with various crops, and I have it under control with some sprays, DE, etc.; but if left unchecked I would have problems with spider mites, aphids, ants, and white fly and some caterpillars. How much of what kind of predators do you recommend? Approx cost? How many re-stocks per year? How do HID lights affect them?…
Thanks for the reply, Ian. I really want to put faith in predators, and it sounds like your experienced. So, mind if I ask a few questions? Good, thanks. Suppose I have a have 2k' GH, with various crops, and I have it under control with some sprays, DE, etc.; but if left unchecked I would have problems with spider mites, aphids, ants, and white fly and some caterpillars. How much of what kind of predators do you recommend? Approx cost? How many re-stocks per year? How do HID lights affect them? Strong oscillating fans? Now, if they're are doing there job, everything's all good, and you get some powder mildew, can you spray any fungicide without nukings the predators? Worm tea?<br/>
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Sorry to trouble you, it's just that I haven't had the chance to ask a first-hand user of predators, nematodes, etc. Thanks Predators are certainly not g…tag:aquaponicgardening.ning.com,2012-01-30:4778851:Comment:2854292012-01-30T10:17:40.298ZIan Hawkinshttps://aquaponicgardening.ning.com/profile/IanHawkins
<p>Predators are certainly not going to eliminate your problem overnight but used in the right way they can prevent mites and control an existing infestation. ladybugs are probablythe most useless of all predators agianst mites, they will eat anything but not quickly and you would need literally thousands of them. i have no experience using lacewings. but when you release 25,000 predatory mites into a enclosed area in the right conditions they do work. and its easy to do. they will establish a…</p>
<p>Predators are certainly not going to eliminate your problem overnight but used in the right way they can prevent mites and control an existing infestation. ladybugs are probablythe most useless of all predators agianst mites, they will eat anything but not quickly and you would need literally thousands of them. i have no experience using lacewings. but when you release 25,000 predatory mites into a enclosed area in the right conditions they do work. and its easy to do. they will establish a breeding polpulation and providing there is food and reasonable conditions they will keep working for you.</p>
<p> if you have had experience of mites in the past but think you have a handle on it then they are really quite good, you can get slow rlease sachets, a mixture of live and eggs, and they hatch over a period of 4 weeks so they are there ready if your spidermites return. prevention is always better than the cure and i find it works best if you have a planned pest prevention programme involving constant restocking of predators and treatment of stock plants before entering the main systems/beds etc.</p>
<p> </p> Spider mites are the single b…tag:aquaponicgardening.ning.com,2012-01-27:4778851:Comment:2843562012-01-27T19:10:21.445ZJon Parrhttps://aquaponicgardening.ning.com/profile/JonParr
Spider mites are the single biggest pest I have ever fought, and I still fight them. My advice is to pick an arsenal of weapons that work for you, and then alternate through those weapons in a twice per week war. They are easy to kill, virtually impossible to decimate. SM prefer hot, dry conditions. Powder mold, also ever present, prefers cool moist conditions. If you adjust your climate to the middle of the two extremes, both will thrive. Experience talking there. So, don't worry about RH and…
Spider mites are the single biggest pest I have ever fought, and I still fight them. My advice is to pick an arsenal of weapons that work for you, and then alternate through those weapons in a twice per week war. They are easy to kill, virtually impossible to decimate. SM prefer hot, dry conditions. Powder mold, also ever present, prefers cool moist conditions. If you adjust your climate to the middle of the two extremes, both will thrive. Experience talking there. So, don't worry about RH and Temp, IMO.<br/>
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Weapons with high personal success:<br/>
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1- oil spray<br/>
Vlad's recipe and dosage are spot on. Others work too, like plain old cooking oil and a drop of soap. I use a brand called Organocide from HomeD or most anywhere. A $14 bottle if concentrate will last you forever. It is made from soluble fish oil, smells like fish, and fight a huge number of pests AND molds. Mist ALL surfaces of plants. Mites are everywhere, you will not get them all, but try anyways. Start with the undersides of leaves, tops get wet from mist settling. I don't recommend this more often than once every 2 weeks. Oil plugs plant stoma, and plants will suffer more than mites if overused.<br/>
2- neem oil<br/>
NOT safe for fish, but if you're careful and clever, you can pull it off. Apply same as #1.<br/>
3- worm casting tea<br/>
Totally safe for plants and fish, foliar feed while you kill mites! High benificial bacteria count in fresh tea also discourages mold.<br/>
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Weapons with moderate success<br/>
1-other homemade sprays, using various recipes of garlic, cayenne peppers, sugar, lemon juice, and or soap<br/>
2-water<br/>
Straight old water kills and removes a good number of mites, especially if your plant is mobile and you can take it outside and give it a proper shower. Rainstorms are best, followed by a cold wet chilled night outdoors.<br/>
3-DE<br/>
DE is also great prevention to a host if baddies, though I can tell you it will not destroy all mites. I have heavily dusted test plants with only DE for weeks, and then inspected the leaves with a glass. Many where shriveled and dead, and plant health was fair, but some mites (20-30%) lived on.<br/>
4- burned sulfur<br/>
Doesn't kill them; but slows them down, jury still out for how it affects the fish. I have burned sulfur a few times during the winter when PM starts to threat, or heaven forbid, botryitis. No fish issues for me, though I hate to use my experience as a guide for sulfur toxicity<br/>
5- high CO2<br/>
Apparently, over 10,000 ppm will kill every living creature in a sealed room. If you have this resource and a sealed room with no fish or pets or people, try it. It's the safest of all poisons, IMO, and bugs can't build up a tolerance to it. I intend to do this once my rocket heater is ducted and tested. I figure a heavy pumping of outside air into fish tanks should keep them alive. Cross my fingers<br/>
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Weapons of low success:<br/>
1- Sprays of alcohol, or H2O2.<br/>
2- sacrificial plants<br/>
I have read many reports of adding spidermite favorites to a greenhouse, with the idea that the mites will attack the candy and leave the rest alone. BS!<br/>
3- climate control, increasing humidity and decreasing temp<br/>
If you have mites in aquaponics then you already have high humidity. If you go to the extreme, then mold awaits you.<br/>
4- beneficial predators<br/>
I hate to include these here on the low list, and to be fair I have only tried lady bugs and lace wings. If someone has any evidence to the contrary, please show it. I really want to trust in predators, but here is the problem. Greenhouses aren't natural. All the natural checks to control mites outdoors are short lived in a greenhouse. First off, they are expensive. Second, all the above controls kill predators too. In order for predators to explode in population to knock out the mites, mites must already be infested, and then you have to painfully wait while damage continues, hoping for the best. The predators I'm convinced are the most effective will turn on each other once spidermites are eliminated, which means when their job is done, they're gone too. The only way I can see that they might be worth it is too quarantine the worst of the SM plants, and place your predators with it to build population while your battling the SM in the main room. Then, let the predators go in the main room to seek and destroy any you may have missed. Then treat the room like a lab, to prevent relapse. Screened vents, no pets, and a quick shower for all visitors, and no starter plants or unsterilized media allowed in the room. Takes the fun out of it.<br/>
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There. That's my $.02. Whatever you decide to do, alternate treatments twice a week for at least two weeks, 3-4 if you can. Then a worm tea soaking once or twice per month should keep the evil at bay I will run out and get the oi…tag:aquaponicgardening.ning.com,2012-01-27:4778851:Comment:2842582012-01-27T17:54:58.278ZWindy Elliotthttps://aquaponicgardening.ning.com/profile/WindyElliott
<p>I will run out and get the oils now. I just need to figure out how those percentages work out in measurements that I can actually use. If I am making a 16 oz solution, how many teaspoons of oil and soap. Good thing I studied math in school.</p>
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<p>I will run out and get the oils now. I just need to figure out how those percentages work out in measurements that I can actually use. If I am making a 16 oz solution, how many teaspoons of oil and soap. Good thing I studied math in school.</p>
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