Found some interesting recipes and/or info on the various N-P-K values of some common organic compounds. What do you use for inputs for your fish-less systems?
"Instructions for Preparing Organic Fertilizers
Organic fertilizers need not be expensive and can be made on your own. This recipe,
to the best of my knowledge, was created by Steve Solomon, founder of Territorial
Seed Company. All measurements are shown in terms of volume, not weight.
4 parts seed meal
1 part dolomite lime
1/2 part bone meal or 1 part soft rock phosphate
1/2 part kelp meal
1. Seed meal provides N and smaller amounts of P and K. Some states prohibit its use
in certified organic operations (not something a home grower needs to be
concerned about). Other options are afalfa meal, or rape/canola meal. The NPK
value of cottonseed meal is about 6-2-1. Bloodmeal can be substituted in place of
some seed meal, since it acts more quickly. Use three parts seed meal and one part
bloodmeal. Seed meals tend to be acidic, so lime is included to balance that.
Dolomite limestone is roughly half magnesium carbonate (MgCO3) and half calcium
carbonate (CaCO3). Calcitic limestone is pure calcium carbonate. Plants usually
need more Ca than Mg, therefore a mix of 2/3 dolomite lime and 1/3 calcitic lime
2. Bone meal and rock phosphate provide the bulk of the P component. Less bone
meal (NPK 0-10-0) is required since it releases its P more readily. The advantage of
using rock phosphate (NPK 0-3-0) is that it continues to contribute P to the soil over
many years. Bone meal is produced as a byproduct of the beef industry while rock
phosphate is mined.
3. Kelp meal (NPK 0-0-10) contributes K and micronutrients. It tends to be more
expensive than the other components. Another possible K source is Jersey
greensand. It has the same advantages and liabilities as rock phosphate (very slow
release) but does not supply micronutrients. Wood Ash is also a plentiful, viable source of K.
Formulas for Balanced, All-Purpose Organic Fertilizer, Fertilizer Ratio
Fertilizer Ratio (N-P2O5-K2O) Ingredients:
2-3.5-2.5 -1 part bone meal
3 parts alfalfa hay
2 parts greensand
2.5-2.5-4 - 3 parts granite dust
1 part dried blood
1 part bone meal
5 parts seaweed
4-5-4 - 2 parts dried blood
l part phosphate rock
4 parts wood ashes
3.5-5.5-3.5 - 2 parts cotton seed meal
1 part colloidal phosphate
2 parts granite dust
0-5-4 - 1 part phosphate rock
3 parts greensand
2 parts wood ashes
2-8-3 - 3 parts greensand
2 parts seaweed
1 part dried blood
2 parts phosphate rock
Substance Nutrient: Elements Supplied:
Blood meal 15% N, l.3% P, 0.7% K
Dried blood 12% N, 3.0% P, 0% K
Bone meal 3.0% N, 20.0% P, 0% K, 24 to 30% Ca
Cottonseed meal 6% N, 2 to 30% P, 2% K
Fish emulsion, fish meal 10% N, 4 to 6% P, 1% K
Hoof and horn meal 14% N, 2% P, 0% K
Leatherdust, leather meal 5.5 to 22% N, 0% P, 0% K
Kelp meal, liquid seaweed 1% N, 0% P, 12% K
Calcite, calcitic limestone 95 to 100% calcium carbonate
Colloidal phosphate or soft
omission 0% N, 18 to 20% P, 27% Ca, 1.7% iron phosphate, silicas, 14 other trace elements
51% calcium carbonate, 40% magnesium carbonate
Granite dust, granite meal,
crushed granite minerals 0% N, 0% P, 3 to 5% K, 67% silica, 19 trace
Greensand, glauconite 0% N, 10% P, 5 to 7% K, 50% silica, 18 to 20% iron
oxide, 22 trace minerals
Gypsum (calcium sulfate) 23 to 57% C, 17.7% S
Langbeinite 0% N, 0% P, 22% K, 22% S, 11% Mg
Rock phosphate 0% N, 22% P, 0% K, 30% Ca, 2.8% Fe, 10% silica, 10
other trace minerals
Sulfur 100% S
Composted cow manure 2% N, 1% P, 1% K
Guano (bat) 8% N, 40% P, 29% K average, but varies widely, 24 trace
Guano (bird) 13% N, 8% P, 20% K, 11 trace minerals
Rabbit 2.4%N, 1.4%P, 0.6%K
We have a lot of gold in in the area where I live. I met a guy who is using biomining to separate gold. It sounded interesting so I looked into it and discovered this page that describes the process. I thought you might like to look at it since it involves FE2.
On the subject of iron.
'Rusty nails' soaked in vinegar, produces (I'm told) Iron (III) acetate, which is great for plants.
I'm running a humonia system, which is woefully lacking in iron, and every couple of weeks I see that yellowing again, so I tip the contents of my rust jar in, and top it back up with more vinegar.
Within a day or two I'm seeing colour coming back into the new growth.
They say that the acidity of the vinegar is largely nuetralised by the reaction with the iron ... but I do find it drops my ph some anyway, so I balance it back out with either hydrated lime or pottassium hydroxide (homemade by boiling wood ash in water).
Its not really a problem as my ph seems very stable, the only thing that really changes it is the iron anyway.