Hey everyone,
I was recently wondering how aquaponics stacked up to other organic nutrients that are commonly used in hydroponics. So I decided, why not run a few tests and see for myself. This is more for my own curiosity, but I hope you all enjoy and feel free to get involved. I will be open to any suggestions or recommendations. All ideas, love, and hate are welcome! Enjoy!
The Contestants:
#1) Regular tap water (control)
#2) Aquaponic water (I have 30 tilapia in 275 gallons supporting this challenger)
#3) Aquaponic water w/ Organicare Seaplex foliar spray (same fish source)
#4) General Organics BioThrive Grow/Bloom
#5) Roots Organic Buddha Grow/Bloom
#6) Advanced Nutrients Mother Earth Super Tea Grow/Bloom
The Plant:
Habenero Pepper from seed through full maturity (100 days expected)... I wished to take clones from the same plant, but couldn't locate a good donor so seeds have to do.
The Setup:
6 DWC 5-gallon buckets. (water changes weekly or a consistent time between 7-10 days)
Vegetative state- 600 watt MH in 6inch reflector
Flower state- 1000 watt HPS in 6inch reflector
Indoor grow
The Winner:
You Decided! I'll give updates both in pictures and videos and let you judge for yourself.
Want anything else, just ask!
We are waiting for the seeds to sprout and action should start within the next 2 weeks
**Non-fruiting ONC coming soon**
Tags:
Back when I did hydroponics it was common to use one mix for the vegetative stage then switch to a higher phosphorus lower nitrogen mix for fruiting but the also made a more generalized mix for those who wanted to grow a little of everything (and were running it all as one big system.)
In Aquaponics the limiting element for fruiting plants is more often potassium rather than phosphorus but luckily The abundant phosphorus doesn't seem to inhibit vegetative growth and the ample nitrogen doesn't usually seem to be limiting the fruiting once a good dose of potassium is provided to a system in the right temperature range for the flowering plants in question.
TC,
Thank you for the info. I have heard of many cases of potassium deficiencies (yellow leaves) on here. I'm glad you have the knowledge to accurately compare hydroponics to aquaponics. It's much appreciated
Well I don't know how "accurate" I really am. I've only done either on a home/hobby scale so far. Only just getting ready to step into commercial aquaponics a bit later this season.
The biggest tricks with Aquaponics are getting everything balanced right without "over thinking it all" most issues are more to do with water chemistry locking something out so making changes in an AP system is generally best done on a slow, one thing at a time approach rather than changing half a dozen things at once and not knowing what actually worked if anything did.
Is there a way to connect your "#2 Aquaponic water" bucket up with the system as a recirculating part? Seeing as aquaponics is really meant as a recirculating system and simply taking water from it to grow plants isn't going to quite provide the same favorable result as recirculating in a complete system.
I would also venture that the DWC may not show in as good a light as a media bed for Aquaponics. I've noticed that several people say they get deficiencies in their raft plants while their media bed plants are doing just fine. I have seen this in my own system even where the plants in the NFT and raft bed are looking poorly of iron deficiency while the media bed plants are still looking pretty good.
Anyway, will be interested to see the results in any case.
"bat or sea bird guano"... so highly phosphorus then.... could very well cause algael problems...
Back when I did hydroponics it was common to use one mix for the vegetative stage then switch to a higher phosphorus lower nitrogen mix for fruiting but the also made a more generalized mix for those who wanted to grow a little of everything (and were running it all as one big system.)
In Aquaponics the limiting element for fruiting plants is more often potassium rather than phosphorus but luckily The abundant phosphorus doesn't seem to inhibit vegetative growth and the ample nitrogen doesn't usually seem to be limiting the fruiting once a good dose of potassium is provided to a system in the right temperature range for the flowering plants in question.
what do you use to add " a good dose of potassium" ?
TCLynx said:Back when I did hydroponics it was common to use one mix for the vegetative stage then switch to a higher phosphorus lower nitrogen mix for fruiting but the also made a more generalized mix for those who wanted to grow a little of everything (and were running it all as one big system.)
In Aquaponics the limiting element for fruiting plants is more often potassium rather than phosphorus but luckily The abundant phosphorus doesn't seem to inhibit vegetative growth and the ample nitrogen doesn't usually seem to be limiting the fruiting once a good dose of potassium is provided to a system in the right temperature range for the flowering plants in question.
@Jane
I highly recommend foliar spraying in an aquaponic system, especially a new one. I would stick to pre-made foliar spray mixes or seaweed extracts though. Bat Guano would be hard to intake for the plants through foliar spraying and might do more harm than good. Its really hard to spray as well, it clogs up most misters. Some foliar sprays have soluble potash in them as well.
Seaweed extract is what I usually use for the dose of potassium as well as the other trace elements but I'm also now using potassium bicarbonate as a buffer in my 300 gallon system as well as the newer tower system. You can get potassium bicarbonate from beer and wine making supply shops.
Foliar feeding is great for aquaponic plants if you have the time/patience. But I would also recommend caution with the bat guano since I think it's pretty strong stuff and would probably spike the ammonia if you were to allow too much to get into the aquaponics system water.
Wood ashes will also be a possible source of potassium and useful to adjust pH up BUT CAUTION wood ashes are strong stuff too. Soaking wood ashes is how they used to make Lye so do some careful testing to figure out appropriate doses so as not to change your system pH too fast.
Seaweed extract is what I usually use for the dose of potassium as well as the other trace elements but I'm also now using potassium bicarbonate as a buffer in my 300 gallon system as well as the newer tower s
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