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Well Brian welcome to AP on the fly. It sounds like your humanitarian opportunity has yielded a lot of life lessons and some good advice. I'm curious now were you able to save Any of the catfish or was the whole thing a flop? "most people miss opportunity because it is dressed in overalls and looks like work"
You might be able to use some activated carbon to remove some of the ammonia in the mean time. You should be able to source it locally.
As stated in the good advice above, do water exchanges and DO NOT feed the fish. Remove dead fish immediately, as they are a rich source of still more ammonia if they decompose in your system. Also, make sure there is no algae growing in your system (fish tanks only, now, I suppose?). Remember, the nitrifying bacteria are photo-sensitive, and UV will kill them off. So, cover your tanks, and your troughs, if you have them built already.
Richard is right, the nitrifying bacteria are ubitquitous, and will colonize your system over time, but not until the ammonia drops below 3.0. However, based upon our own experience here at Friendly Aquaponics in starting over 15 systems over the past four years, we have had excellent success starting systems in only 3-4 days with the bottled nitrifying bacteria from the AES catalog, but I understand you can't get that. It's a total waste of money anyway, if your ammonia level is over 3.0.
So, waiting and water exhanges are you only option. Best of luck, and please tell us how it goes!
What is your filtration Brian? Is it media beds or raft beds or biofilter?
Patience is the biggest thing (cycling is generally best done with a minimal fish load or fishless to reduce stress and fish deaths but no matter how you do it, cycling up takes time, normally 6 weeks under good to average conditions,) keep your water flowing and being filtered as much as possible and the nitrifying bacteria will show up. Don't feed the fish, and clean out any uneaten feed that you can and hopefully water quality will improve before you loose too many more fish.
You might be able to use some activated carbon to remove some of the ammonia in the mean time. You should be able to source it locally.
Activated charcoal WILL NOT remove ammonia...
Chi Ma said:You might be able to use some activated carbon to remove some of the ammonia in the mean time. You should be able to source it locally.
Ammo-Carb.... "mixes Ammo-Chips® and Activated Filter Carbon to rid aquarium water of dissolved organic materials and ammonia".....
Ammo-Chips is just zeolite.... http://cms.marsfishcare.com/files/msds/ammo_chips_122309.pdf
And yes zeolite can bind ammonia, until saturated....
And under certain conditions can also disssociate and release it again..... a very temporary emergency fix at best....
Chi Ma said:
I use stuff called Ammo-Carb by API the locals around here call it activated carbon.
What is your filtration Brian? Is it media beds or raft beds or biofilter?
Patience is the biggest thing (cycling is generally best done with a minimal fish load or fishless to reduce stress and fish deaths but no matter how you do it, cycling up takes time, normally 6 weeks under good to average conditions,) keep your water flowing and being filtered as much as possible and the nitrifying bacteria will show up. Don't feed the fish, and clean out any uneaten feed that you can and hopefully water quality will improve before you loose too many more fish.
To lump some of your questions together - the bacteria responsible for ammonification and nitrification does not like direct sunlight, and their activity is influenced by many factors, including pH and temperature. Their activity also requires lots of oxygen in the water as they rely on aerobic reactions. Your temp and pH together will also play a role in the danger level of uniodized ammonia in the water (kits normally measure TAN or total Ammonia nitrogen, which includes two forms of the the chemical - the uniodized form is very toxic. Typically, with higer temperatures, the bacterial action will be better, and with neutral to slightly alkaline water, the bacteria will perform better.
How sensitive are your kits? Often with test strips, I could not pick those up. It typically takes around 40 days to cycle if the process worked well (if you were not adding heaps of cultures to speed it up). The ammonia will trigger the bloom of nitrite-producing bacteria, and the spike in nitrite will in turn trigger the bloom in nitrate-producing bacteria. If the ammonia is there, and the temperature and pH is not extreme, the rest will follow as the bacteria is everywhere and WILL show up in your system.
Brian Hitchcock said:
I have a bucket that has a filter that is mesh like a heater filter, I would say it is fiberglass. The water from the bucket starts at the top of the growing bed and runs through a gravel media that consists of granite chips. We will change water again tomorrow. Ammonia is better at the moment, but don't see a hint of nitrates or nitrites yet. It is about 4 weeks.
TCLynx said:What is your filtration Brian? Is it media beds or raft beds or biofilter?
Patience is the biggest thing (cycling is generally best done with a minimal fish load or fishless to reduce stress and fish deaths but no matter how you do it, cycling up takes time, normally 6 weeks under good to average conditions,) keep your water flowing and being filtered as much as possible and the nitrifying bacteria will show up. Don't feed the fish, and clean out any uneaten feed that you can and hopefully water quality will improve before you loose too many more fish.
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